Derby Talk

You may just need to clean the stop section of your track with denatured alcohall. That was my next guess. Maybe the track and not the car. Some of you have seen our past cars and this body is hugh compared to others. The others would stop with no problem. I have filled the bottom with balsa and ad...

Well, none of it worked. The foam, the sandpaper, the card stock. I even made another piece of small wood (balsa) and glues it to the bottom and still won't stop it. The car just flys. To put it into perspective, my council champion car ran a consistant 2.470 on my track. This car runs a 2.460 at 13...

Dad has and I'm going to try one side sticky foam. Its about the thickness I need to fill the void, depending on the weight. Its used for plumbers to wrap pipe for insulation. Will let you know soon how it works.

Car flys off end of track. We built hershey bar car this year and to get a little more COM, I routed out the entire underneath side of the car (funny car style). The car flys, it actually beat my council champs cars track record by a good bit. But I have to figure out a way to stop this thing. I tho...

Be careful when swapping wheels. Don't know if your rules allow but our don't. The car must stay intact as is, its not taken from you until the next race but believe me, when your winning, everyone is looking for something top keep you down. Just food for thought.

Should have changed my title a bit, kinda misleading. Was curious of the car setups for this type. We have already been successful on this track just never seen on like this before. We already lighten our wheels as allowed by our rules. We actually won the council race 2 years ago and district last ...

I remember seeing it a long time ago but can't find it. Last year we ran on a track at district that had about 2 foot of straight away. What would be the best setup for this. I have always been very aggressive on COM for 32' and longer but this track is maybe 24' but all slope. ????

You can go more aggressive and still fly. We went .375" (3/8") 2 years ago and came away with the council title undefeated. Its all about the car setup and alignment. When you cross over the .5" com barrier, you must contain the wiggle to reap the benefits.

We have built a car with a aggressive .375 com (council champion). BUT, the track was very smooth (I knew that going in). To me the track is the most important. Have you ever heard of the dredded wiggle. Well there is a fine line you play with when going aggressive. I have a 35' best track that the ...

the reason I use the socket was that any mechanical moving parts spin too fast thus generate heat and then total melt down. If you do the socket, you can feel the heat generated so what do you think the drill press is doing.

The socket was my idea a couple years ago, still use it today because the "KID" get to do it not a lathe.

Thanks. Good to be back at the most additictive craft in scouting. My oldest son is out now and my youngest is just getting started and pumped to get to building. I saw some of sporty's data. I have a track of my own also, I'll have to give it a try and do some comparison myself.

Man I have been out of the loop for some time now. Now my youngest son is a tiger and I noticed that there are new wheels. Anybody use them and how do they compare to the old molds?

Non of the above. There is no reason that a dad or mom can't google and find out all the info they want. Its all about spending the time to do so. Not the overnight delivery. And with some help from this site, we have been very successful.

Here's my experience.
Canting the DFW resulted in more rear end instaility.

I actually lost .01 to .02 with the DFW canted.

You did something wrong.
Negative cant the rear but positive cant the DFW. Also canting the wheels will make it MORE stable with a aggressive COM.