Derby Talk

Do I connect all the grounds to the -12VDC or just to pin 5 of the serial port? All the grounds, pin 5, and the "negative" side of you power supply are hooked together. Look at the circuit diagram and imagine you have a wire from the negative side of your power supply running to the groun...

I'm not sure what you have for a power supply or how it's labeled - but picture your car battery at your power supply - one side is +12V the other is ground or 0VDC. There are power supplies such as those used in computers that have multiple output voltages at it is possible to have an actual -12VD...

The -12VDC is same as the ground? I'm not sure what you have for a power supply or how it's labeled - but picture your car battery at your power supply - one side is +12V the other is ground or 0VDC. There are power supplies such as those used in computers that have multiple output voltages at it i...

somewhat off topic - but I always have a weight adjustment pocket drilled or cut into the bottom of our cars. I figure out how much putty I need for trim weight - put a drop of superglue in the pocket - then the putty. Then I put a light coat of superglue over the putty to seal it in place. The putt...

Well the ground for the 12V needs to be common to that point as well. How you actually hook the wire is up to you. I don't have my start gate in front of me, but I think I ran wire from the ground side of the 2.5MM DC JACK, PANEL MOUNT to the capacitor, then a wire from this same point to the gnd on...

Thanks Speedster and 5Js. I have the MaxV kit which goes up to 2500. I was wondering where folks find the 4000, 8000, and 12,000 I have read about. Would be nice to find this in a reasonable prices kit. I quick look at the kits on micro-surface.com can give you some sticker shock, Seth The Micro-Me...

Max-V has a nice kit of micromesh papers.

we were finally able to remove the four on the floor rule from our rules last year. This is one rule I really wanted to get rid of - over the years I saw to many cars get broke at inspection trying to get the 4th wheel to touch. The look in the scouts and Dads eye when they busted out a chunk of woo...

Yes, I believe it's best to not allow the up, non-DFW, to spin. If you have a properly aligned railrider the up wheel shouldn't touch during the race and is really only there to keep you on the stop section. If you are raising the wheel and NOT railriding - not recommended - then you probably want ...

I read in another post the shaving 1/8" off the DFW side is too much. This all depends on the build and alignment of the car - but in general if you use an aggressive positive cant on the DFW 1/16" is a good starting place, however if you don't put that much positive cant on the DFW then y...

In a nutshell I think Sporty has it - but I'm sure somebody like Stan can give better specifics of the dynamics involved.

Drift is part of the equation - but the real culprit is COM. The COM is too agressive for the steer and/or track setup.

Interestingly enough, the Revell axles are better than the BSA axles. I find it curious how they can mess up the wheels (which they obviously did) yet get the axles better than the originals. I'm not sure the Revell axles are better- the diameter is a lot smaller. Granted they take less work - but ...

... If you want to learn to drill axle holes correctly, learn how to drill your rear axle holes canted. I am sure the veterans here on DT will agree. :bigups: :bigups: :bigups: Drilling holes correctly was a big learning process for me. First make sure your drill press table is square. There are ma...

Another post made me remember that I did modify your process slightly. Instead of putting the bore rod into a drill and having it turn in a stationary wheel - I chuck the wheel int a drill press (chuck on the outer bore) and insert the bore rod into the rotating wheel. This allows me to keep the mic...

As I'm sure Sporty will attest to - make sure your seam on the bore rods is well sealed - and stay away from that area while polishing. I hold the bore rod at the bottom of the bore and roll the bore rod from 3oclock to 9oclock while moving the rod in and out. You don't want the seam area to hit th...