Derby Talk

good info above - if you are not 100% comfortable with all the processes go with 1" - if you are pretty comfortable go with 3/4" - if you think you have everything covered go with 5/8". With stock BSA - I don't recommend going less then 5/8".

As I'm sure Sporty will attest to - make sure your seam on the bore rods is well sealed - and stay away from that area while polishing. I hold the bore rod at the bottom of the bore and roll the bore rod from 3oclock to 9oclock while moving the rod in and out. You don't want the seam area to hit the...

On the other hand, maybe I should just keep my hands off it. Thanks *5J's*. With scout cars and not knowing how well the track is set up we always tuned to 3 1/2" to 4" over 4'. With Pro cars running machined wheels and axles on a perfectly tunes track I was tuning to 9-10" average o...

I have only raced on a Besttrack - but I think you may need more steer for that track. Just my opinion - but the tight curve can upset cars.

Sporty - I have tried many different methods to polish the bore - your procedure takes a bit more time but in my opinion produces a much shinier "black glass" finish. I haven't done any testing - and don't always use your method exclusively - but it does work well. If I don't use your meth...

I didn't have good luck with the floor polish. What I found for making the best finish is to put on a couple of coats of clear - I don't mask the areas around the axles - instead I put spare axles in the holes. Then I use 3M sanding papers to get a real smooth finish - making sure to polish the area...

Shawn - your math is sound for a 4 3/8" wheelbase. If you extend the wheelbase with 2.8on the rear, your COM is even greater away from the rear axles. For an example if you can a 5.75" wheelbase and measured 2.8oz on the rear (total) your COM would be 2 1/2" forward of the rear axles...

I prefer a 5/8th to 6/8th stock wheel base. I would recommend 1.3 to 1.4oz of weight for each wheel on the rear. not a 1.8oz. If you make it so you have 1.4oz on each rear, that's only 2.8oz total for the rears, meaning 2.2oz for the front. That wouldn't yield a COM of 5/8" or 6/8" for a ...

TimInOhio wrote:From the picture on the site, it looks like the step on the outer hub is removed on the 4080 BSA Pro Stock wheels. Can someone confirm that? Thanks.

Have you emailed Randy at Maximum Velocity - he will usually get right back to you with a definite answer.

This whole process is probably better explained in a video and/or pictures. It's gonna take a lot of text to explain the steps and reasoning of each step to take to be successful. Some things I discovered by accident but there's a reason it works. I believe it can be directly translated to BSA whee...

I believe most of the stainless axles are now using a grade that cannot be detected by a magnet - however they are readily identifiable visually. I think most speed axles are readily identifiable visually - except for the ones that are machined from the BSA axle. I don't think there is any way of de...

TimInOhio wrote:

TimInOhio wrote: This item is not on the original post. Where should it be in the circuit? I want to make sure I am protecting the right thing(s). Thanks!

Anyone? Do I just put it inline with the 12VDC?

Thanks!!!

sorry - missed the original post - yes inline or in "series" with the 12v

I am assuming a scout came in with an Official BSA kit by Revell, Made in China. He had Revell cut out his car instead of somebody else. The Official BSA Pre-cut kits from Revell have way too much wood in them except for a few models. Even then, it is a block of wood that someone cut out. There are...

Thick or thin car I like the top block - but agree I would like to see the end grain. Sporty likes the tight grain of the top as in a thin car the tighter grain will make a stiffer car - less prone to flex and vibration. But even if you have a thick car - I would still use the top block as the tight...

when using Novus 2 - the q-tips work better for me then pipe cleaners - but there is more chance of damage if the shaft of the qtip is too large or drill speed is too high. Personally - I think Sporty's bore polish rods work better - though it cost more to buy the stuff to make the bore rods.