The axle -to -bore clearance is much tighter than the BSA. The wheels are actually round. The axles have no crimp marks and my old eyes seem to detect tapered heads. I hit the wheel bores with a simple hand twisting of a cheap pipe cleaner and wax, no plastic polish beforehand. I hit the axles with only Mother's Mag Wheel Polish and no sanding beforehand. I then sprayed the axles with our usual 3M Dry-Type Silicone from NAPA. I used 1 drop of Nyoil II and the wheels are almost silent when spinning. No vibration either.
As if this wasn't good enough; I slid the rear wheels/axles into the slot and test rolled it. I'll be darned if the rear wheels don't go to the head forward and backward. I know it wasn't designed to do this and I got lucky inserting them. But still, I've never heard of this happening with a BSA kit.
I prepped this way to do a run through on a car like we'll be doing at the workshop. We're getting more racers than I expected so off to the MaxV site for another batch of kits.
Everyone can get 10% off by entering - 10FALL17 - before proceeding to Checkout or 15% off on orders of $120 or more by entering 15FALL17 before proceeding to Checkout. Go on axles and the 1 cent axles should show as one Penney.
This offer ends October 2nd so you don't have much time.
He was willing to make the situation right even though it was my mistake. I'll certainly be buying our supplies from him again for next year's race.
Anyway the rules state "must use supplied kit form Maximum Velocity". Interesting...
I told my wife to get a kit ASAP. We go it last night and I am sold. I will be buying Max V kits in bulk for our Scout races this year.
They are $3.12 each as compared to $4.59, and the axles alone are superior. I hate to say it but it is almost criminal that the BSA kits have the junk axles they do. Tons of work involved to make the work well. That is why our rules recommend that the teams go buy a set of Revell wheels just to get the axles.
The Max V kit has axles which are round, without crimps or flashing, and the head is tapered already, perfect!
The wheels are stepless, so no need to do a step bore mod. They are also lighter than the newer BSA wheels and pretty consistent in weight at between 2.51 and 2.54 grams for the four I have. BSA wheels are all over the map, and the older ones (2-3 years)are lighter. I am convinced weight is the primary feature in wheel selection. Lighter ones are better as long as the runout is not excessive. The runout on the Max V's I have is between .002 and .004"
If a team brassos these axles and runs a q-tip with some polish in the bore and applies graphite (all relatively easy to do compared to what is done to stock wheels and axles) they are at no major disadvantage to the teams doing a ton of work. The teams that put in the work will still win, but the other teams will all be more equal, and closer without being at a disadvantage if they are not well stocked in the tool department.
1) When setting steer on the DFW you have to make sure the leading edge of the wheel doesn't contact the block. I just slightly notched the block where the leading edge of the wheel made contact.
2) The combination of rear wheels canted 3 degrees, tight wheel to body gap and bodies that are as tall as the wheel (such as in a wedge) the top of the rear wheels can contact the block.
These are not something that would prevent me from using the kits. Now that I see it, I just compensated for it with mods to the block. Washers would fix this also.