Ynot wrote:Hi,
I've only skimmed through this guide as I'm running out of time. I didn't originally plan on RR, yet wondering if it's too late for me on my current build.
I already drilled, shaped and added most of the weight to my body. When I drilled the axle holes I made the right front 1/16 higher to 3 wheel it down the track. As I understand correctly, with RR, this is supposed to be the dominant steering wheel, correct? If that's the case can I simply use the left wheel as the dominant instead and narrow that side of the body 1/16? Would this make the procedure too complicated? If so, I'll wait until next year.
Also, I've been try to locate a RR tool locally, if I can't how do I proceed without it?
Thanks,
Tony
You can make either wheel dominant - no issue. In your case the left wheel will be the DFW or dominant front wheel that will steer to the rail - and this is the side you will narrow the body in the area of the front wheel. This does not complicate things at all.
If you cannot locate a RR tool you can bend an axle without it. What I do is drop the axle through the wheel and mark the spot the axle exits the wheel with a Sharpie. Now remove the axle from the wheel and place in a drill. While the drill is turning hold the edge of a file to the axle at the point marked with the sharpie. What you are going to do is make a slight "score" or groove around the axle - do not go too deep - basically just make a score. Be careful to not allow the file to ride up the surface the wheel will ride on. (You may want to make the groove prior to polishing the axle - but ensure you polish BEFORE you bend the axle). Next remove the axle from the drill and make a mark on the axle head with a sharpie. This is now the 12 o'clock position. Put the axle in a vice such that the score is at the top of the jaws with the axle head facing up and the 12 o'clock position away from you. Now place a flat blade screwdriver on the score and tap the end of the flat blade screwdriver with a mallet to bend the axle towards the 12 o'clock. If you can cant you rear wheels you want approximately 3 degrees on bend in the rear axle. For the DFW axle you will want about a 1.5 degree bend. If not using the RR tool - make sure you know what 1.5 and 3 degrees looks like. 1.5 is barely perceptible. I recommend you practice on a test axle or two.
When you install the rear axles you will place the 12 o'clock mark on the axles UP to provide negative camber (axle heads will be higher then the tips). For the DFW you will put install the axle with the mark at the 9 o'clock position. This will likely provide way too much steer, so you will roll the axle counter clockwise to turn some of the 1.5 degrees into positive camber until the amount of desired steer is obtained. 6 o'clock is all positive camber - 9 o'clock is all toe-in.
It can get tricky to rotate the axle one installed so some people cut or file a groove into the axle head to allow for turning with a small flat blade screwdriver.