Scroll Saw vs. Band Saw

[TAL]

YES you can cut a 2inch block with a scroll. A scroll saw will leave less marks for sanding.
use a # 9 or 12 blade. I like the reverse blades.
Detail - no problem

Did you cut the photo's out with a scroll saw???

[Doug-in-the-woods]

They are not photos cut out. I take a photo, make a pattern on the computer,then cut out 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood to make these portraits.Have done several using mirror plastic in different colors (Marlyn Monroe was done in clear (reg mirror) plastic.)
Have lots of celebrties and have done many custom ones for people from their photos.
The photos are just used to make the pattern
Now if one wants some detail in just wood then visit my website www.woodgifts.net and look at the jewelry box cut from 3/8 red oak.
I have a very expensive scroll ($1300)saw as well as a bandsaw. I will take the scroll saw over the bandsaw for cutting out pinewood cars.
Time wise I can cut out a pine car faster on my scroll saw than you could using a bandsaw (this includes sanding to the finished product)
Using the correct blade will make the difference (a pine car body = #9 or 12 reverse tooth blade)
and yes a cheap Dremel scroll saw will do a pine car body. A little slow but yes. Find another HomeDepot or cut a car body out and go back and show the salesmen that YES you can cut thick wood on a scroll saw.

[ciodude]

Holy smokes Dozer.. 40' test track? Where do you have 40' of space at your house to put it?! I just measured my basement (27') and the combined dining room/living room/foyer (33').

As for Sarah, not sure how old she is but mega kudos to her design and workmanship. I suspect I'd have a factor of ten more "test" blocks before I gave up on the design.

[ciodude]

Doug - amazing work on the wood photos!

You guys are just making this whole scroll vs band saw decison harder not easier! Seriously lots of good things to consider and I like the idea of my kids being able to do more work with the "safer" scroll saw.

[Doug-in-the-woods]

I believe SAFER is the name of the game if kids (under say 25 yrs) are going to cut out wood using a saw.
If you buy a scroll saw depending on how much you wnt to spend buy QUALITY once and only cry once. Buy cheap and cry every time you need to repair or replace.
Dewalt for around $400
Hegner, RBI Hawk, Eclips = $1000++
My Hegner 18" saw variable speed = $1300. Been using for about 12 years = Problems= 0

[ciodude]

My kids are 8 (about to be 9) and under. Not sure though I can afford that much quality though.

[Davhamm]

I Have the Dewalt, more than enough quality for all but the pro's. Even it is probably over kill, but oh what a joy to use.

[Doug-in-the-woods]

I started out with a 2 speed Dremel, made several modifications and did lots of work with it.
If looking for a fair saw then the Dremel but need to add an acrylic tabe top, a blade slot and chenge over to pinless blades.

[TAL]

I have the Dremel 1680 and it is capatable with both blades (pin and non-pin), angles left and right and is a variable speed (not 2 speed)...

I bought it about 13 months ago at Lowes with the at the time enclosed leg stand...

It was the display model and I got it and the stand, papers and all the blades and tools for a low low price of $119.00 plus tax...

Dremel has the 16" model scroll saw, and they also have an 18" model with the side/disc sander...

In my opinion, for the hobbiest the 1680 dremel would be adaquate enough for any hobbiest ...

But here is a link that will help you understand saws better in the entry level versions www.plansnow.com/reviewscroll.html and hit the download review ...

I believe anything above $500.00 will be more for the professional type arena... Also after looking at some reviews of some of the more exspensive models they seemed to have more problems than some of the cheaper entry level versions... So I really don't think the higher the price is Always better quality far as dollar for dollar...

[Doug-in-the-woods]

For $119 you got a pretty good saw.
Now add an acrylic table top (1/4" thich, a good work light that's not attached to the saw and a good blower o blow the dust off.
An get a hold of mikesworkshop.com and get some free samples of flying dutchman blades.
Suggest reverse tooth #9 or 12.
Most anyone that uses a scroll saw to any extent will discard the material hold down gizmo - not needed, can be more of a hinderence.
As far as quality dollar for dollar. It's like the best car for the value is a Rolls Royce.
My Hegner I have used for 12 years and had one minor problem - the speed control wasn't working right after about 9 years. Called the tech line in Canada and five miniutes later I had speed control working like new.
For the hobbiest - yes the lower end saws are fine. Just don't expect it to cut as smooth or as quick.
The real difference in a high end saw is how clean are the cuts and vibration from machine.
The blade on a low end unit will have a considerable amount of blade run out (front to back).

[Randy and Son]

Maybe I am stating the obvious here, but to me the biggest difference between the two kinds of saws (besides inside cuts) is that with a scroll saw I feel comfortable cutting "on" the line. With a band saw it seems better to cut "close" to the line (just outside) and then sand down to the line. For me, I feel that results in a better product that way.

Randy

[Stephen's Dad]

Nice work Doug in the Woods. WOW!

We use both depending on the task.

Delta 14” 28B Band saw ca 1953 (I like older power tools)

For all rough body cuts that need to be square or even for slicing the body into laminations for added strength.

Craftsman 16" Direct Drive Scroll Saw (also older)

For detail work & build workshops.

I don't let any of the boys use the bandsaw except my son & even then only with my hands on his.