I decided to try something out and it appears to be a better process.
I bought 6,000,8000,12,000 grit mirco mesh sand paper with aheasive backing. Only can call in for it to order, no on there website.
so then I took some small steel wire and cleaned the wire first, to get good tacky contact. I cut 1 1/2 inch long strip, about 1/4 to 1/2 wide. I had to play with this a bit to get it to wrap around the steal semi regid wire.
Then I had 1/2 of the strip past the end of the wire. So I could roll it smaller. As I had trouble finding a smaller wire and with it wrapped around the wire is to big for the wheel bore.
So Once the end / overhand of the sandpaper is wrapped around itself and on the end of the steel wire. i inspect to make sure it will fit into the wheel bore whole.
Then I do a few more, 3 or 4 of each grit size. So If I have a issue with one, I grap another.
Then I insert the steel wire into the drill press chuck at 600 rpm, before I turn on the drill. I place and get the end of the rolled up micro mesg sand paper starting with 6,000 grit. Before I turn it on.
Then turn it on and carefully move the wheel up and down for about 5 seconds.
Then I repeat the process for the 8,000 grit.
But on the 12,000 grit, i do this for 10-12 seconds.
The end result is a highly polished inner wheel bore. Alot better than the pipe cleaner micro polish process.
I did not measure the before and after wheel bore prep inner diameter. But I have found no performance issues yet with this process.
FatSebastian wrote:What did the paper look like when you were done? Did you notice a lot of residue from the wheel on it?
Can you say from where you got the paper?
They were yellow wheels and I saw very little if any at all. that fine is more for polishing than removal of material. So if any was removed it was next to none.
The sand paper just looked a little lighter due to wear of the sandpaper spinning, certainly no material on the micro mesh, bye the human eye.
but you have to call to get the adheasive backed, its not listed.
I've been micro mesh sandpaper for over 4 years now, found it when I was wanting to polish soft plastic (kids soap box derby cars).
i'll see if I can get a pic or two, but quality of pic is the issue
You can cut a small square and roll it up in your fingers.
Chuck the wheel up and run it in and out a few times.
It puts a beautiful shine on them.
The Q-tip, pipe brush, combo. platix, meguirs, micro-polish, novus 2. burnish or in combo.
With having to keep in mind, bore hole damage or making a bigger whole.
But the best glossy shine and best results have been from the the process on my initial post.
no matter what process you use or prefer or works for you or anyone is great ! It's what works for you that matter most.
So many are set on one method or another. many still keep there methods secret and hidden.
After all if you are on top or very fast. You like to try and stay there.
I give so others can grow and learn and try, so that perhaps one day they may share there new found tips and secrets with others and be kind enough to keep my info in the back of there minds that was provided out in the open for free.
Pay it forward.
Then play around with some other stuff.
When I have more time, I will be getting back to the shop to work more on this.
What we really need is more leaguers sharing there bore prep process. Those guys are pretty darn fast.
The guy with the microscope, needs to chime in and show pics of his bore process and get a dialog going. Thats where the real progress comes. Someone with the tools and and a few of us getting together to really compare different prep methods.
I wanted to just say that the bore prep process I have been doing. Has been a great process and I very strongly feel that this process is truely the future and the way to go !
In fact I would not be surprised at all. to see vendors offering small rods with these grits wrapped around the rod to polish your wheel bore.
Forget micro polish paste or meguirs plastix or whatever you have been doing. This process is the it !
The same process in reverse works great for the axle polish also.
this is all the way down to .03 micron ! so you speed demons, If you know of something finer that .03 micron. i'll try it !
Be assured when you are that fine, the sandpaper is a trick to do ! to much, to fast, to long, instant ruin of the sandpaper.
hello 1 second ! at 600 rpm.
So unless you have a better secret bore prep process than this and are way faster than me ! then please do share, otherwise folks trust me on this one !
Take the time to do this and make it work and happen for you. The results are well forth it.
I am a cub scout den leader in Chattanooga and I have taken a keen interest in your website. You have compiled a vast amount of knowledge on pinewood derby cars that is fascinating!
Well, we recently got done selling popcorn and it is almost derby time! I got a wolf who is into this stuff and dad (me) is kind of digging this stuff too!
This bore prep area is a compelling area of research. Here are some thoughts:
Goal of correct bore prep: We want to make these bores as smooth as possible without distorting the inside of the cylinder. We want this bore to be compatable with the axle design and canting configuration of the car.
Thought: Hobby websites sell 1/16" wooden dowels that can be further sanded-down to a smaller diameter and used as a base to attach micro-mesh sandpaper or wind cotton around. Consequently, these dowels can be chucked-up into a drill and used to polish the bore of a wheel. With a little practice, this cotton casing can be applied around the sanded dowel rod and used with polishing compounds. The thickness of the cotton annulus can be defined to get a nice snug fit inside the bore. I will be working on this application and will keep you informed of my progress.
Sporty: I will try your process and see if I get the same results and possibly further define. What makes your method superior to the current applications of pipe cleaners and polishing compound? Is it the finish of the surface and no imperfections? How "snug" should the contact of spiral wound micro-mesh sandpaper be? Is it tight in the bore? Are you using water to facilitate the process? Do you try to modify (straighten) the taper of the bore with your process?
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One of the experienced folks who uses both states that oil "likes" a finer polish than graphite "likes."zeezop wrote:Do you prep your bore differently for oil than for graphite?
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
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I do not try and modify or taper the bore with this process.murphken wrote:I will try your process and see if I get the same results and possibly further define. What makes your method superior to the current applications of pipe cleaners and polishing compound? Is it the finish of the surface and no imperfections? How "snug" should the contact of spiral wound micro-mesh sandpaper be? Is it tight in the bore? Are you using water to facilitate the process? Do you try to modify (straighten) the taper of the bore with your process?
My method does a better job at polishing the bore !murphken wrote:What makes your method superior to the current applications of pipe cleaners and polishing compound?
My method is not really designed to really remove material !
No water is used at all ! when you are using this fine of sand paper, water is not needed !
Well you do not want it snug enough to cause damage to the sand paper or to the bore, but you also do not want it to sloppy that you are not getting a uniform area of the bore polished properly.murphken wrote:How "snug" should the contact of spiral wound micro-mesh sandpaper be? Is it tight in the bore?
So, its not tight to the bore and its not sloppy either. I prefer a little room as I do move the wheel up and down during the process. I then flip the wheel over and repeat the process to ensure even prep work.
I want to get looking for some small oil hardened drill rod that will be stiffer than the current wire I am using.
precision polishing inc,
12 micron,9 micron,5 micron, 3 micron, 1 micron, 0.3 micron, 0.05 micron
the other process-
4,000 grit micromesh,6000,8000,12,000. Then 3 micron, 1 micron, 0.3 micron, 0.05 micron.
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