Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Hmmmm, things to think about... well actually maybe not. As I have proposed changing the rules with the new wheels to not allow any wheel work other than polishing the bore.
If you use sporty's method for polishing the bore, why not just put the graphite on the 12000 micromesh and burnish with that.
If you use sporty's method for polishing the bore, why not just put the graphite on the 12000 micromesh and burnish with that.
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
You will gum up and wreck the micro-mesh.
Sporty
Sporty
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
I presume you are talking about chenille wire or chenille stems (as opposed to say, chenille yarn). I have heard, but can't quite precisely put my finger on, admonitions regarding chenille wire from craft stores (because they may be made from artificial fibers that might put fine scratches in the bore, or problems with the wire, or ?), Here's a related topic. Not sure if these warnings have merit, because traditional pipe cleaners from the nearby pipe shop are really cheap and what I use. I have some Long's Extra Absorbent Pipe Cleaners (FYI, there are different degrees of nap but but all say "extra absorbent" on the label. I think Long's medium size comes 60 per bundle while the "extra fluffy" comes 36 per bundle.)doct1010 wrote:We all used a chenille (sp), not sure about others. It is available at craft stores, tends to thicker and fluffier than typical tobacco cleaner.
Other opinions / recommendations?
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
FS,
I believe they were stems. True regarding wire, need to take a bit of extra care. Not so sure about fiber thought they may have been cotton, they were considerably thicker than many others we had tried. We rarely used them in polishing process, more often to clean bore with denatured alcohol.
I believe they were stems. True regarding wire, need to take a bit of extra care. Not so sure about fiber thought they may have been cotton, they were considerably thicker than many others we had tried. We rarely used them in polishing process, more often to clean bore with denatured alcohol.
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Ok, but if you make a dedicated piece for this, Would this not be a better way to get the graphite burnished in?sporty wrote:You will gum up and wreck the micro-mesh.
Sporty
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
You can try it, but when I tried this, I ran into issues, but give it a try and report back.
Then I'll share what I ran into, maybe you won't
Sporty
Then I'll share what I ran into, maybe you won't
Sporty
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Ok, but first i gotta get a rod and paper... Our race season is past but i can work on pulling the supplies together. As i said earlier I have done this with just the micromesh and graphite on the tread area and it seemed to work fine.. never did get a microscope out or anything, but put a nice smooth shiny surface on it.
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
For cross-reference, this has since been addressed over on this topic.FatSebastian wrote:Great question AlDan. Can folks state the brand and type of cleaner they are using (preferably with a part or some other ID number)?AlabamaDan wrote:How fluffy is this pipe cleaner y'all are using?
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
On a couple of occasions early on this thread mentioned "sporty's method" to I believe wheel bore polishing. Can someone help me find where that is, my head's starting to hurt.
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Thanks FS. I love this site.
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
FatSebastian, you must either have a great set of bookmarks, or an encyclopedic memory of topics on this board.
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
FS, Are these the pipe cleaners you all use?FatSebastian wrote:I presume you are talking about chenille wire or chenille stems (as opposed to say, chenille yarn). I have heard, but can't quite precisely put my finger on, admonitions regarding chenille wire from craft stores (because they may be made from artificial fibers that might put fine scratches in the bore, or problems with the wire, or ?), Here's a related topic. Not sure if these warnings have merit, because traditional pipe cleaners from the nearby pipe shop are really cheap and what I use. I have some Long's Extra Absorbent Pipe Cleaners (FYI, there are different degrees of nap but but all say "extra absorbent" on the label. I think Long's medium size comes 60 per bundle while the "extra fluffy" comes 36 per bundle.)doct1010 wrote:We all used a chenille (sp), not sure about others. It is available at craft stores, tends to thicker and fluffier than typical tobacco cleaner.
Other opinions / recommendations?
http://www.amazon.com/BJ-Long-Standard- ... 000WW6VUO/
There are only two seasons: baseball season and The Void. - Jonathan Yardley
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Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Here's a dedicated thread that addresses the question.Ickabod wrote:FS, Are these the pipe cleaners you all use?
Re: Lubrication & Break-In Procedure
Yeah, i read that thread and wasn't sure based on the description if the ones on Amazon are the same. Just trying to have a picture to go with your descriptionFatSebastian wrote:Here's a dedicated thread that addresses the question.Ickabod wrote:FS, Are these the pipe cleaners you all use?
There are only two seasons: baseball season and The Void. - Jonathan Yardley