Painting 101

Secrets, tips, tools, design considerations, materials, the "science" behind it all, and other topics related to building the cars and semi-trucks.
*5 J's*
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Painting 101

Post by *5 J's* »

I searched the forum but couldn't find much information on prepping and painting cars, so I thought I would start a tread to see what others have tried, what has worked, and what has not. I am looking for a process for the majority, that is, folks that will be using rattle cans vice air sprayers. I am particularly interested in the products that are used to prep and paint the body.

What are the recommended products and procedures for painting a car? Any other prepping or painting "hints"

1) Make a "Paint Jig" to hold the body while painting
2) Fill any nicks, gouges, etc. with Spot Putty/Glazing Putty
3) Sand body down to 400 grit
4) Use tack cloth to clean body
5) Spray Duplicolor Filler/Primer ( a lacquer paint)
6) Lightly sand with 600 or 800 grit paper (wet sand?)
7) Apply Duplicolor Lacquer Paint - color of choice
8 ) Lightly sand with 800 or 100 grit paper if necessary (wet sand?)
9) Apply stickers or decal
10) Apply Clear coat - product recommendation over lacquer paint?

Note I am suggesting the use of lacquer paint vice enamel. That seems to be the recommendation of the pro's. Duplicolor Lacquer seemed to be recommended by many - Krylon (enamel) was discouraged. A few other tidbits I dug up (I have not tested any of these recommendations):

If you use enamel for a color, and want to spray a clear over that, you have to do it within an hour of your final coat of color and no less than hour between coats, otherwise, the solvents will make the paint crack and bubble. Lacquer would be a better choice for color then you can spray enamel clear over that.

Anything can be sprayed over Lacquer, but lacquer can only be sprayed over Lacquer. (seems to contradict the last line above)

Kandy Colors are semi-transparent or transparent. Most Pearl colors are not. Metal Flake colors can be used as a base color under the Kandy colors but be aware the underlying color will show through the Kandy color and you could end up with a dark brown if you don't mix the colors right. This is where a good old fashioned color wheel comes in handy. Pearl Colors would also make a good base color.

If you want the WoW effect then contrasting colors are best. Subtle effect are also cool but that requires 2 colors that are complimentary or almost the same hue, i.e. ghost flames. Rule of thumb is that a silver or gold base will change the hue of any top Kandy color to either a Warmer (Gold base) or cooler (Silver base) color of the top Kandy Coat.

"Sample" credit cars make great Spot Putty spreaders. Cut easy to any size & have just the right flex for spreading
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Darin McGrew
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Re: Painting 101

Post by Darin McGrew »

At our workshops, we provide paint booths to contain overspray. They're just large cardboard boxes that are open on one end.

Inside the paint booths, we have cheap turntables, the plastic kind that are sold to help organize spices and other small containers in your cupboard. This helps kids spray all sides of their cars without getting too many fingerprints on them. We use small paper cups on the turntables, to set the cars on.

We also provide trigger handles that snap onto spray cans. The trigger handles make it easier for little hands to use rattlecan spray paints.

Boxes of disposable gloves help with cleanup.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by *5 J's* »

Darin McGrew wrote:At our workshops, we provide paint booths to contain overspray. They're just large cardboard boxes that are open on one end.

Inside the paint booths, we have cheap turntables, the plastic kind that are sold to help organize spices and other small containers in your cupboard. This helps kids spray all sides of their cars without getting too many fingerprints on them. We use small paper cups on the turntables, to set the cars on.

We also provide trigger handles that snap onto spray cans. The trigger handles make it easier for little hands to use rattlecan spray paints.

Boxes of disposable gloves help with cleanup.
Sounds like a good setup Darin. How are the fumes from the paint?
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Darin McGrew
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Re: Painting 101

Post by Darin McGrew »

We set up the paint booths outdoors, so the paint fumes are minimal. Yes, I realize that setting up paint booths outdoors in January doesn't work in all parts of the country...

A couple notes for adding stripes to cars. The easy approach is to use pinstripe tape from an auto store. But if you're going to mask the car and paint the stripe, then here's a trick to prevent the second color from bleeding under the masking tape:

After you mask the car, but before you paint the second color, spray one more coat of the first color. Any paint that bleeds under the masking tape will be the first color, which won't show. The last coat of the first color will seal any gaps. Then spray the second color.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by *5 J's* »

Darin McGrew wrote:We set up the paint booths outdoors, so the paint fumes are minimal. Yes, I realize that setting up paint booths outdoors in January doesn't work in all parts of the country....
Yes - Maine is one of those parts.
Darin McGrew wrote: A couple notes for adding stripes to cars. The easy approach is to use pinstripe tape from an auto store. But if you're going to mask the car and paint the stripe, then here's a trick to prevent the second color from bleeding under the masking tape:

After you mask the car, but before you paint the second color, spray one more coat of the first color. Any paint that bleeds under the masking tape will be the first color, which won't show. The last coat of the first color will seal any gaps. Then spray the second color.
Never thought of that. Thanks for that suggestion.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by macd »

Do you paint the bottom of the car too?
Do you do anything special to keep paint out of the axle holes?
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pwrd by tungsten
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Re: Painting 101

Post by pwrd by tungsten »

macd wrote:Do you paint the bottom of the car too?
Do you do anything special to keep paint out of the axle holes?
It is easier to not paint the bottom. I usually primer the bottom and top but only paint the top.

I tape the axle holes...
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Re: Painting 101

Post by FatSebastian »

macd wrote:Do you paint the bottom of the car too?
Not usually. For us, the difference between painting and not painting the underside is usually the difference between over 5.0 ounces or not. Like pbt, we sometimes prime the underside, especially if there's some feature of our design we'd like to mask. ;)
macd wrote:Do you do anything special to keep paint out of the axle holes?
Some people use toothpicks, but we often use the circle number stickers that come in the BSA kits as masking tape. Note that masking materials can leave a residue, although it is easily removed with a little adhesive remover on a Q-tip.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by pwrd by tungsten »

I like the stickers instead of toothpicks because I like bare wood covered with graphite for the wheels to rub on. If you are a pro auto painter than pro autoclear is smooth enough. Otherwise I like the graphite on wood...
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Re: Painting 101

Post by Stan Pope »

pwrd by tungsten wrote:I like the stickers instead of toothpicks because I like bare wood covered with graphite for the wheels to rub on. If you are a pro auto painter than pro autoclear is smooth enough. Otherwise I like the graphite on wood...
In addition, some paints seem to "harden" the wood's outer surface and to affect some attemts to align axles! Better to leave the wood unpainted.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by FatSebastian »

Stan Pope wrote:In addition, some paints seem to "harden" the wood's outer surface and to affect some attemts to align axles!
... the evidence of which is mentioned here.
pwrd by tungsten wrote:... I like the graphite on wood...
Also discussed here.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by Stan Pope »

Thank you for dredging up those references, FS!
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Re: Painting 101

Post by bad_karma_2805a1 »

I am no pro at painting cars I can tell you that. But one thing I have done is this. I take a "pants hanger", the ones with the card board tube and removed it. Then I bend the two arms so that they form a couple of hooks. Then I use a couple of square tooth picks and slip them into the slot for the wheels.

Then I use the tooth pick pegs to hang the car from the bent hanger. This allows you to have 360 access to the body of the car, a easy wat to move the car around without touching it, and an easy way to store the car while it dries.

Just my two cents.
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Re: Painting 101

Post by VWAffe »

*5 J's* wrote:...
10) Apply Clear coat - product recommendation over lacquer paint?
...
Lacquer clear coat!

And spray can sanding sealer (also lacquer) speeds up the body sanding before primer.

:lol:
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Re: Painting 101

Post by Scubersteve »

macd wrote:Do you paint the bottom of the car too?
Do you do anything special to keep paint out of the axle holes?
My paint jig is just a coat hanger cut and bent to suspend the car from the ceiling by holding it by only the front or rear axle holes. I can then paint all sides at once. This also allows me to easily carry the car back inside and hang it under the ac vent while the paint is wet. (It's humid in Florida most of the year) I don't use booth, just back the wifes car out of the garage first. Also, I don't bother covering the axle holes because I find it is easier to just chase the holes with a thumb drill after paint if I find the paint has tightened up the fit too much.
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