Any experience some #44 drill bits making too big of a hole?

[PWD]

I purchased a bunch of Brad Point #44 drill bits. They all make holes too big. Wish I had purchased #45. In 13 years of PWD building never seen this. I have tried bits both made for soft and hard wood. All of them came from the same company. I have even purchase multiple years thinking that it was just a bad batch or something.

Curious if anyone ever experienced this before.

[psycaz]

If you have anyway to, check the run out of your drill. That is probably the cause of your issues.

I have had it happen to me. Just had to correct the chuck and all was fine.

[Stan Pope]

Or drill manually through a drill guide such as a ProBody Tool.

Check the drill diameter if you think that it is oversized.

I encountered the same effect and concluded that, in that case, it was due to the "cleanliness" of the drilled holes. The knife edges of the bit makes a much cleaner hole than the spade bits we so often use.

[*5 J's*]

Yes, my #44 brad point bits for softwood drill a near perfect #43 hole, or at least a perfect hole for a 0.091" axle. The next time I order, I am going to get #45's.

Where do yuo get your bits PWD, WLFuller?

[PWD]

If you have anyway to, check the run out of your drill. That is probably the cause of your issues.

I have had it happen to me. Just had to correct the chuck and all was fine.

We use the bits on a lathe and a mill. We actually don't chuck them but instead use collets. Pretty sure it is the drill bits not the tool I use them on.

They do create a cleaner hole so probably part of the issue. We have about 8 of them so checked size with a micrometer and found that they vary +- .015". So some are .0855 and some are .087. We used the .0855 on a test board and it was a little better. I am wondering if they wear down a little over time and holes are then closer to .086".

We tend to go through a lot of bits. My son dropped the lathe head on the table and it shattered a carbide bit. Nice that they break instead of bending. A little later we were using a old metal bit and he bent it. Bent it so that it was very noticeable.

Yes we got them all at WlFuller. Only place we have ever been able to find them. Actually I think I also got two from someone on here a few years ago but I bet they also ultimately came from WlFuller.



It has been a very interesting day. All kinds of weird problems. More fixing things then actually building.

Yes they came from WlFuller. Actually I think we got two of them from someone on the forum a few years ago but I think they ultimately came from WlFuller. Why on earth I did not purchase 45's the second time is beyond me. I did not check the hole with a gage pin but I would guess it is right about the hole you would expect with a #43, 089".

[FatSebastian]

What Stan and psycaz said. We have experienced looser holes when drilling with the Fuller brad points in our drill press. But I know my drill press has undesirable runout through the stroke and had attributed the outcome to that. This is because when we drill with a pin vise using the PBJ and, the brad-point holes seemed perfectly usable and tight.

[Stan Pope]

This is because when we drill with a pin vise using the PBJ and, the brad-point holes seemed perfectly usable and tight.

Having concluded that the fault was probably "cleaner holes" I quit looking for other faults. Drill press runout was probably the more likely cause. And I should give 'em a try with the PBT! This sequence of posts is one of the main reasons I continue to do Derby Talk!

[PWD]

What Stan and psycaz said. We have experienced looser holes when drilling with the Fuller brad points in our drill press. But I know my drill press has undesirable runout through the stroke and had attributed the outcome to that. This is because when we drill with a pin vise using the PBJ and, the brad-point holes seemed perfectly usable and tight.

I don't think it is a runout issue but rather a drill bit issue. Reasons for this conclusion:

- Don't have the same problem with other drill bits
- I have had the same problem on a Taig lathe and a mill with both using collets. They use totally different collets. One uses R5 the other ER16.

We will give a #45 bit a shot and see what we get.

[FatSebastian]

I don't think it is a runout issue but rather a drill bit issue.

Given that run out was probably not the issue based on the accuracy of your equipment, I was commenting how my own circumstantial evidence (on less-accurate equipment) had led me to a dismissive conclusion per reasoning already described by Stan and psycaz (which I might do well to question).

[Stan Pope]

... had led me to a dismissive conclusion per reasoning already described ...

[PWD]

I don't think it is a runout issue but rather a drill bit issue.

Given that run out was probably not the issue based on the accuracy of your equipment, I was commenting how my own circumstantial evidence (on less-accurate equipment) had led me to a dismissive conclusion per reasoning already described by Stan and psycaz (which I might do well to question).

No problem.

[quadad]

I am surprised FatSebastian didn't cite one of my favoritely titled threads for this http://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php? ... fat+for+me. The conclusion there led toward shorter carbide bits or brad point bits from Advantage. We had good 'luck' (?) with brad point bits from Fuller in the Pro Body Tool and Jig, but eventually moved to canted angle drilling with jobber length, solid carbide bits in the drill press (along with the variable angle plate for desired cant). Finally taking Pinewood Daddy's advice here, I have to say that the past league season using #43's and 0.091" (measure more like 0.090") axles were the tightest holes we have ever drilled. I bought similar carbide #44's for our Scout season and expect similar results, but we haven't hit that step yet.