Wheel Installation Q's

[Ynot]

Only 4 people know about the materials that were in testing.

Flubber!!

[sporty]

LOL, but wish I had some that stuff if it was real, but flubber would like bounce the car to the moon.

[Stan Pope]

Thank you. You are under no obligation to clarify details in your explanation or to satisfy my curiosity about the mechanics and goals of your method.

There are so many gaps in the description that I find it really frustrating. But I will honor your request.

[DKO]

Interesting discussion. Thank you.

[whodathunkit]

while you can!

[*5 J's*]

There are those that apply physics to these cars and there are those that find stuff through real world trial and error. Sometimes it is hard to explain what you find or observe. Sometimes these little cars even seem to behave outside the laws of physics.

Here is one to contemplate. Two identical cars - car one has wheels that will spin for 20 seconds, car two has wheels that will only spin for 10 seconds. Which one will be faster? We have been led to believe through the wheel spin test that car one will be faster - BUT this is an incorrect conclusion. Car one is running on graphite - car two on oil. The oil car is faster.

Anyway to answer the original question - I prefer to start the axle into the hole or slot by hand - then turn the car over and press the body down onto the axle, making sure I have the spacer tool FS mentions between the body and the wheel. After you have gone as far as you can - you need to place a penny under wheel/axle head to get the last little bit of insertion.

[Duane]

Two identical cars - car one has wheels that will spin for 20 seconds, car two has wheels that will only spin for 10 seconds. Which one will be faster? We have been led to believe through the wheel spin test that car one will be faster - BUT this is an incorrect conclusion. Car one is running on graphite - car two on oil. The oil car is faster.

What if the spin test is repeated after 10 races? Does that graphite'd wheel still spin longer than the oiled wheel?

[Stan Pope]

Anyway to answer the original question - I prefer to start the axle into the hole or slot by hand - then turn the car over and press the body down onto the axle, making sure I have the spacer tool FS mentions between the body and the wheel. After you have gone as far as you can - you need to place a penny under wheel/axle head to get the last little bit of insertion.

This works ... I would reserve a particular penny for that purpose and drill a slight indentation in the center for the axle head to nestle in. Reason is that I don't want the axle head to slip sideways while I'm pressing down.

However, I already have a properly sized item with a center depression in my toolbox, so I saved my penny! The item is the clamp I use when working wheels ... it has a centered depression that the live center engages when it clamps wheels onto the mandrel.

[*5 J's*]

Two identical cars - car one has wheels that will spin for 20 seconds, car two has wheels that will only spin for 10 seconds. Which one will be faster? We have been led to believe through the wheel spin test that car one will be faster - BUT this is an incorrect conclusion. Car one is running on graphite - car two on oil. The oil car is faster.

What if the spin test is repeated after 10 races? Does that graphite'd wheel still spin longer than the oiled wheel?

[*5 J's*]

Anyway to answer the original question - I prefer to start the axle into the hole or slot by hand - then turn the car over and press the body down onto the axle, making sure I have the spacer tool FS mentions between the body and the wheel. After you have gone as far as you can - you need to place a penny under wheel/axle head to get the last little bit of insertion.

This works ... I would reserve a particular penny for that purpose and drill a slight indentation in the center for the axle head to nestle in. Reason is that I don't want the axle head to slip sideways while I'm pressing down.

However, I already have a properly sized item with a center depression in my toolbox, so I saved my penny! The item is the clamp I use when working wheels ... it has a centered depression that the live center engages when it clamps wheels onto the mandrel.

I only use the penny under the axle head for the last 1/16" of insertion, so the axle head should not slipn and alter the course of the axle.

[Stan Pope]

This works ... I would reserve a particular penny for that purpose and drill a slight indentation in the center for the axle head to nestle in. Reason is that I don't want the axle head to slip sideways while I'm pressing down.

However, I already have a properly sized item with a center depression in my toolbox, so I saved my penny! The item is the clamp I use when working wheels ... it has a centered depression that the live center engages when it clamps wheels onto the mandrel.

I only use the penny under the axle head for the last 1/16" of insertion, so the axle head should not slipn and alter the course of the axle.

I see. I think that there is just a bit of risk of slipping most of the way and the more axle exposed from the hole, the greater chance to damage the hole if something does slip. It probably doesn't happen often enough to worry about, but keep in mind that some of us wear suspenders AND a belt, just in case one of 'em gives way.

[*5 J's*]

I only use the penny under the axle head for the last 1/16" of insertion, so the axle head should not slipn and alter the course of the axle.

I see. I think that there is just a bit of risk of slipping most of the way and the more axle exposed from the hole, the greater chance to damage the hole if something does slip. It probably doesn't happen often enough to worry about, but keep in mind that some of us wear suspenders AND a belt, just in case one of 'em gives way.

The suggestion is great Stan, in fact I believe Max-V sells a piece specifically for this application. So far, knock on wood, I haven't had issues with using a plain penny. Pushing the body down onto the axle is definately more controlled then hammering the axle into place. If using the slots the DerbyWorx axle insertion tool works great to guide the axle into the correct alignment.

[Scubersteve]

I have this great drill bit that makes an interference fit hole every time for my awana axles.
I can install them with my thumb and I haven't had one loosen up on me yet out of 8 cars.
No glue or anything. I have been gapping by eye...maybe i should be more precise...

[FatSebastian]

I have this great drill bit that makes an interference fit hole every time for my awana axles. I can install them with my thumb and I haven't had one loosen up on me yet out of 8 cars.

Steve, what drill bit are you using? I am not an AWANA racer but I read here that the typical 3/32" bit won't produce a hole snug enough to hold an AWANA axle without some glue.

[Scubersteve]

well, I bought cheapo 3/32 drill bits in a two pack and they are never quite the same size, so i drill a test hole with each one and one of them was a perfect snug fit... and it was actually a straight bit! Almost unheard of in cheapy bits I know. Got lucky.