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 Painting car with krylon 
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Apprentice
Apprentice

Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:57 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Dallas, TX
Hi guys, I have a question on painting my sons cars. I have been trying to use krylon and the base coat keeps crinkling after the second coat is applied. Here is what I have been doing.

1:Sand car smooth and clean.
2:Apply krylon primer and allow to dry.
3:Apply krylon gloss black paint and allowed to dry for a little over 2 full days
4:Taped car off for flames and applied yellow krylon over the black and with a min or 2 it crinkled the paint. I did this 2 different times with the same result.

I have done some internet searching and have found many people with this problem. My next step is repainting and put the cars in my powder coating oven set to about 100 degrees and let them dry for a few hours like that and see if that with do it. What are you guys thinking on this.

What paints and methods are you guys doing to get a good paint job.


Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:31 am
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:46 pm
Posts: 181
Location: SoJo, UT
I typically use acrylic for base coats either acrylic or enamel for clear coats and rarely have a problem. I had a problem recently on a paint job that involved Krylon, though I can't necessarily attribute the problem to Krylon. I used Krylon primer and base coat then added details by hand with acrylic paint and the crinkling happened when I applied a Rust-oleum enamel clear coat. The places where I didn't add acrylic details crinkled more severely than those that did. I figured that the crinkling was due to the enamel reacting with whatever kind of chemical Krylon uses. After reading your post perhaps my problem the Krylon as well.


Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:09 pm
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Pine Head Legend
Pine Head Legend
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1210
Location: Forgan, OK
Machanic & BallBoy,

I,ve had the same problems with the krylon paints here lately.
I can't count how many times i've had some good luck with it as well.
But here lately it has been cracking up on me as well.

I don't know if it's something wrong with the primer..
every time i used the primer with the paint it cracked.

but when i used the paint with the clear coat no cracking.

I.ve also been on the web and there are lots of people
saying the same thing's about the krylon paints.

I've been looking at changeing brands and going with Testors paint.

Mark


Last edited by whodathunkit on Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:10 pm
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Apprentice
Apprentice

Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:57 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Dallas, TX
I did a test using Duplicolor, Krylon and Rustoleum and all three crinkled on me after drying for 1 day and topcoating with krylon crystal clear. I have cleaned, sanded and repainted both cars that was ruined and currently have them in my powder coating oven set to 100 degree's. I am going to leave them there over night. I also put a couple test pieces in there that I can do a test with before ruining my great paint jobs again. I will let you guys know if oven drying the paint for a day or maybe 2 will do the trick.

P.S. I have always wanted a airbrush and maybe this is the time to go ahead and buy one.


Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:20 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:46 pm
Posts: 181
Location: SoJo, UT
whodathunkit wrote:
I've been looking at changeing brands and going with testers paint.


I've used Testors a few times in the past and had good luck with that brand (primer, base & clear). The cost of Testors is somewhat prohibitive, especially when you choose a paint scheme that has multiple colors.


Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:20 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:31 pm
Posts: 253
Location: Carmel, IN
Clearly there's a chemical reaction happening between two different colors of paint. It could also be the clear coat. Double check and make sure you are using exactly the same kind of paint for all of the colors. Acrylic lacquer with acrylic lacquer. Enamel with enamel. Etc. I stick to the Duplicolor Automotive spray bombs and have never had a problem. When using acrylic lacquer to refinish guitars, I have seen the finish "fish eye" if the surface gets contaminated with Silicone, which is added to a lot of polishes. So be careful about what is on your hands or the cloth with which you are wiping dust off of your finish.

Paul


Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:46 am
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Journeyman
Journeyman

Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2012 8:27 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and wanted to chime in on the subject. My son is in his 2nd year as a Wolf cub, and we have had good luck with Testor's paints. We messed up a little last year when we tried to get creative with multiple color schemes. We went with the metallic star spangled blue this year, and it looks beautiful and shiny. We only applied one coating of primer, one coating of paint, and one clear coat (all Testor's). We finished the car during the Christmas holidays, and my son will race on January 28th. Below are some pictures.

A HUGE thanks to all of you here at Derby Talk. I have been lurking here for a long time, and the information you all post is second to none.

Image

Image


Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:16 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 1:51 am
Posts: 665
Location: Seattle, WA
Use duplicolor car paints, primer and clear. They are lacquer based and have no re-coat window. Always use the same type of paint and a compatible primer and clear. If you use the paint you are using you will need to wait days (Even a week to be safe) before recoating.

_________________
W Racing!!!!


Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:57 pm
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Pine Head Legend
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1210
Location: Forgan, OK
mechanic wrote:
P.S. I have always wanted a airbrush and maybe this is the time to go ahead and buy one.


I've been looking at getting an airbrush myself.
Testors has the airbrush kit propellant can type that are good for starters looking to learn how to use one.

There are so many airbrush types to choose from.
Internal mix
external mix
single action
dual action
bottom feed
side feed
gravity feed

Problem is I can't make my mind up on what type to get for painting
the cars with.
But i've been looking at the iwata Eclipse internal mix dual action..
Because i here it's a good brand of airbrush.
But it is not cheep.
Hopefuly some of these guys who do airbrushing will chime in
and share some more info about them or what type or brand they use.
Because this is one tool i'd like to learn more about before i buy one.


Last edited by whodathunkit on Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:20 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:46 pm
Posts: 181
Location: SoJo, UT
Welcome to DerbyTalk RRS73. That is a nice looking car.

whodathunkit wrote:
Hopefuly some of these guys who do airbrushing will chime in


Like Whoda I have had a thought once or twice about airbrushing, but don't know the first thing about the equipement. I would find some instruction and advice very helpful, too.


Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:13 pm
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Pine Head Legend
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1210
Location: Forgan, OK
BallBoy wrote:
Welcome to DerbyTalk RRS73. That is a nice looking car.

whodathunkit wrote:
Hopefuly some of these guys who do airbrushing will chime in


Like Whoda I have had a thought once or twice about airbrushing, but don't know the first thing about the equipement. I would find some instruction and advice very helpful, too.


YES :welcome: RRS73 and nice looking car.
And best of luck to you guys at your race.

BallBoy, I spent last sat at a Hobby Lobby looking at a few airbrushes
sometimes they have free copies of airbrushing
a user's Guide to getting started.

I picked one up and did some reading on them.

Internal mix-a type of air brush where the paint is atomized inside the airbrush tip.
external mix- a type where the paint is atomized outside the tip.

Single action- a method of activating an airbrush whereby depressing the
trigger delivers bouth air and paint simultaneously

Dual action - a method of activating an airbrush whereby depressing the triger
delivers air ..and drawing back on the triger releases paint.

bottom feed- a siphon feed system where paint is drawn up from a reservoir
(jar or cup) mounted undereath the brush.

Side feed- a siphon feed system where paint is drawn up a resarvoir
(color cup) mounted on the side of the brush.

gravity feed- the system where paint is drawn into the airbrush from
a reseroir mounted on the top of the brush.

AIR Sources..
the diaphragm compressor (Air medea silent type)
is the type that is usually designed to propel the brush.

piston compressor ..the type for home or auto use.
for this on you'll need to trap the water or oil in the air lines
with a moisture filter water.
oil filter..oil.

the caned propellant (cheeper type of brush)

carbonic gas tank the third method of propelling the brush.
Extremely high pressure (800psi)
over kill for painting cars..

what types of paint can be sprayed.. any paint as long as it can be
thinned to a flowable consistency (such as milk or ink)
with the appropriate thinner.

what air pressure is an airbush sprayed 25 psi. for artwork 55-65 for T-shirts
or automotive painting.

What are the different size tips for the airbrush.
most are abaptable to three different tips-fine,medium,& heavy-
to enable different size/volume sprays and to airbrush materials of
varying viscosity (thick or thin).
When the tip is changed in the internal-mix airbrush, the needle
must also be changed to correspond (fine,medium or heavy).

:whew: Hope this helps you guys out
And good luck with the painting.

whoda.


Last edited by whodathunkit on Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:47 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:46 pm
Posts: 181
Location: SoJo, UT
Wow! Ask and you shall receive. Incidentally I was at a Hobby Lobby last Saturday as well and walked past the airbrushes and that got me thinking a little bit about them. I didn't have time to stop and stare so maybe I'll plan for that next trip.


Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:12 pm
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Pine Head Legend
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1210
Location: Forgan, OK
BallBoy wrote:
Wow! Ask and you shall receive. Incidentally I was at a Hobby Lobby last Saturday as well and walked past the airbrushes and that got me thinking a little bit about them. I didn't have time to stop and stare so maybe I'll plan for that next trip.


I almost picked up the Testors caned air airbrush kit .. it was $25.00
not bad in price for one to paint a few cars with.
It used the acrylc paints more caned air for it was around $7.00
Not bad in price for one to play around with..
But you know how us guys are.. like kids in the candy store
we've got to have the good stuff as far as tools :)
But most of us make due with what we have also.

Maybe next trip I'll pick a good airbrush up.

whoda.


Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:55 pm
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Master Pine Head
Master Pine Head

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 8:55 am
Posts: 756
Location: Norway, Maine
pwrd by tungsten wrote:
Use duplicolor car paints, primer and clear. They are lacquer based and have no re-coat window. Always use the same type of paint and a compatible primer and clear. If you use the paint you are using you will need to wait days (Even a week to be safe) before recoating.

:bigups: I had problems with Krylon doing the same thing as well. I went to Duplicolor - more money but I have had not issues since. I have also had good luck with Testors One-Coat as well as Tamiya rattle cans.


Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:49 am
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Journeyman
Journeyman

Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2012 8:27 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Thank you Ballboy and Whoda! Testor's One Coat has won me over. With a single coats of primer, paint, and clear, we only noticed 0.1 oz of weight from paint once fully dried and cured. The car looks great. We too would like to try airbrushing one day, but Testor's has worked well for us so far. I may try Tamiya and Duplicolor one day as well.


Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:05 am
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