Lathe work

[sporty]

Here are a few simple video clips.

Of my lathe work and Using Stan's method for holding the wheel.

I had to hold the camera with one hand. So a but shaky and not the best video shooting.

But here you go.


















I usually do a small first cut. just enough to take off about .001.

Then I take off like .003

then the rest are under .001, until I am at where I want to be for the o.d.

Sporty

[ciodude]

Fantastic Sporty. Thanks for sharing yet again! A picture is worth a thousand words!

[sporty]

if you click on it, it plays, (its video.)

[ciodude]

if you click on it, it plays, (its video.)

Ahh so more like 100,000 words! Even better.

[Stan Pope]

Good job, Sporty!

A couple of minorl differences from my method ...

I use the same sizes on each side of the wheel so that the force of the clamp (the part on the right side of the wheel) is simply compression. When they are of unequal diameter, there is (I think) a risk of distorting the wheel due to clamp pressure while the wheel is being cut, especially if less gentle hands are tightening the clamp. Also, I use the same diameter stock as I use for the ream guide. Hopefully, the bore ends up exactly parallel with the tread that way! Or ... maybe the compression from the clamp is greater than the compression from the ream guide, so maybe your smaller mandrel is better. I'll have to think about that and, maybe, run some tests!

Second difference is that I cut left to right, engaging the side with the serrations first. If you cut into the serrations, they cut more cleanly left to right. (Thanks to Teeeman for that idea!)

Regardless of my concerns, it looks like you are producing quality wheels! WTG!

[sporty]

I just found this way to work. and as I mentioned, getting well under .001.


I did try to cut from left to right, but simply found that it put to much pressure there and I seen run out more around .001. But as you mentioned I do use a smaller mandrell that you do.

I just found a finger wipe, removed any side material from going right to left was easier and I seen better results.

Before I push it in and tighten it. which I could not show on video, cuz I needed noth hands for it, and one was holding the camera.

was letting it center in the whole, before I tighten it up / lock it, while it is spinning.


Also, my friends who own a machine shop here locally, they been in biz for like 50 years. and they were the ones who came up with the cut / type of bit/cutter to use and thats the way they did it and showed me to do it. this was when I just used a one piece mandrell, versus the two peice. and when I seen the higher run out, as i mentioned the other way. that too, is what led me to stick with the left to right.

I think no matter what way, someone does it, as long as they get better than .001. then thats a plus. Most vendors are not selling better than .001. At least not the wheels I have bought or other who bought and had me check them.

Sporty

[rpcarpe]

Sporty & Stan,
thanks for the hints on lathe work!
We ruined more than a few wheels this year on my lathe while going through the learning curve.
Must get some metal tube stock to help hold wheel.
We also had bore deformation from pressure, wheels ended up wobbling on the polished axles.
Thanks!

[Stan Pope]

Sporty & Stan,
thanks for the hints on lathe work!

You're welcome!

Must get some metal tube stock to help hold wheel.

My clamp is not made from "tube stock". Rather, it is made from the same material as the mandrel. One end is drilled just larger and deeper than the hub and chamfered to clear the hub fillet. The other end is just center drilled to locate the live center in the tailstock.

I thnk that it is better that the mandrel and clamp are the same outside diameter.

All surfaces that touch the wheel are mildly polished with emery cloth, at least 320 grit.

[sporty]

I did mine a bit different for reasons, I would explain latter. got to run to work now.

I polish my o.d. upto 12,000 micro mesh

[TimInOhio]

Can someone recommend a good lathe to do wheel and axle work next year? Thanks.

[sporty]

Can someone recommend a good lathe to do wheel and axle work next year? Thanks.

There our a few lathes out there, that are good.

The issue comes into play, with, really getting the other stuff that makes it better.

Collet holder, collets. the grinder, learning how to cut and make your own bits. Then making your own mandrells and wheel holer.

It took me almsot two months of hard work and time, before it started to come together and the cost of the additional tools, cost as much, if not more than the lathe.

You are going to need, dial indicator, and pin gages and dial indicator base and v-blocks to measure the work that you do.

harbor freight, tig.


Sporty

[PWD]

For Pinewood derby work I would recommend the Taig. It a small lathe but the size makes working on axles and wheels the ideal size.