Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

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The Iceman
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by The Iceman »

FatSebastian wrote:
The Iceman wrote:I learned my lesson on one of these!
I've not seen this particular tool discussed. Perhaps you could write a review as a new topic?

Not sure you want a newbie writing something up with one race under his belt!

Ice
The Iceman
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by The Iceman »

JSG wrote:A while back I remember some guys were drilling 2.5 deg canted axle holes by placing a drill bit between the block and the tool to tilt the block. Was there ever a consensus as to the effectiveness of this technique? I want to get away from bending axles in the rear but I don't want to spend the money on a drill press.
I use it, but my bodies are only 1/4 tall so tilting it isn't a problem. I put another junk 1/4 body on top of it and clamp it down on the opposite of the Rod. (note: if you clamp in the middle you'll actually bend the block) Check out Stan's Web site, his Spacer table is handy! .089 rod = 3 degrees. http://www.stanpope.net/camdrill.htm I went through all my closets and found a coat hanger @ .088 so thats what I use.

Note: I just figured this out --(works only for 1/4 tall blocks) is when you do the DFW you flip the block over and drill it. This lowers the axle perfectly but remember to flip it back to do the Raised Wheel.

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Stan Pope
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by Stan Pope »

The Iceman wrote:... his Spacer table is handy! .089 rod = 3 degrees. ... I went through all my closets and found a coat hanger @ .088 so thats what I use. ...
:bigups:
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ODDRacing
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by ODDRacing »

DerbyAddicted wrote:Well besides the cost, I'm not sure Goat Boy is making them any more. I haven't had much luck finding any.
GoatBoy is still making them. He just got more material in last week and is making more as we speak.
TXDerbyDad
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by TXDerbyDad »

ODDRacing wrote:
DerbyAddicted wrote:Well besides the cost, I'm not sure Goat Boy is making them any more. I haven't had much luck finding any.
GoatBoy is still making them. He just got more material in last week and is making more as we speak.
The one thing I can think of when trying to find anything by that guy PWD related is: "Man, he doesn't seem to want to sell anything." I'm glad he's making them still, but where the heck do you get his stuff from? The Slot Car supply website I found is the hardest thing in the world to navigate.
ODDRacing
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by ODDRacing »

TXDerbyDad wrote:
ODDRacing wrote:
GoatBoy is still making them. He just got more material in last week and is making more as we speak.
The one thing I can think of when trying to find anything by that guy PWD related is: "Man, he doesn't seem to want to sell anything." I'm glad he's making them still, but where the heck do you get his stuff from? The Slot Car supply website I found is the hardest thing in the world to navigate.
Look up goatboy on www.pinewoodderbyonline.com. he's on there a lot
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davet
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by davet »

My Pro-Body tool had become useless because the holes were slightly elongated now after drilling about 15 blocks however the next size up bit (#43) wouldn't fit. I went to Michael's and bought their Revell tool ($14.00 or so) for drilling axle holes (red anodized). The bit that came with it was only .076" diameter and was sloppy in the holes. I thought I had just wasted $14.00. My #43 bit however, fit snugly with no wiggle. I twisted the bit by hand through the holes and it spun freely, still very snug.

I grabbed a block that was cut down to 5/8" high. A full height block won't allow enough play. I layed a .082" bit onto the surface of the tool where the block rides. Push the bit all the way to one side and lay the block into the tool and on top of the bit. The block is now cocked in the tool (one side higher than the other). Lay the tool onto a flat surface and push the block down into the tool so the low side fits flat against the tool then clamp it there. Check to make sure the bit is still pushed up against the one side and not angled at all. I did need to put 2 pieces of paper between the side of the block and the tool so it would fit snug on the side and be square.

I placed the smooth end of the #43 bit into the hole of the tool and in far enough that it touched the block. I placed a square against the side of the block and made sure the bit was square to the block (no toe in or out.) If it isn't perfectly square try angling the tool on the block with the slight freeplay it may have until the bit is square to the block. Re-clamp. Remove the bit from the tool and install in drill. I sprayed the bit with silicone so I could slide it into the hole smoothly and not be cocked in the hole. Drill the hole.

Move to the other side and do the same thing.

I placed the #43 bit into the axle holes and checked again for square (no toe in or out). Both rears came out exactly perpendicular to the block and both angled at 2.5 - 3 degrees.

Since my DFW will be bent down I tried using the raised hole in the tool to drill this one. I didn't come out straight. I used super glue gel and a toothpick to fill it back in. I then redrilled it straight with the regular hole in the tool. Again, before I drilled it I placed the bit into the hole and checked it for square to the block before drilling it.

I installed three straight, polished stock BSA axles and added 17 cubes to back and rolled her 48". She steered 1/4" in 48". I think this will be good enough to make sure my rears are straight before installing my bent DFW. This will now be this year's car.

If you don't like that the axles aren't super tight in the holes (no slop though) then add a dab of water into the hole and it will tighten right up. Let a drop from your finger lay on top of the hole then tap the block so it falls in. Blow into the hole to spread it around. Also, someone else told me to drill your 2 glue holes under each axle because they will side easier as air won't be trapped in the hole. When you're done messing with the axles then glue them in. After you take them out once the hole will still be tight.
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sporty
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Re: Drilling canted axle holes with pro body tool

Post by sporty »

Years ago I did #43 in the tool. Worked good.
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