Another canted hole option

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davet
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Another canted hole option

Post by davet »

My Pro-Body tool had become useless because the holes were slightly elongated now after drilling about 15 blocks however the next size up bit (#43) wouldn't fit. I went to Michael's and bought their Revell tool ($14.00 or so) for drilling axle holes (red anodized). The bit that came with it was only .076" diameter and was sloppy in the holes. I thought I had just wasted $14.00. My #43 bit however, fit snugly with no wiggle. I twisted the bit by hand through the holes and it spun freely, still very snug.

I grabbed a block that was cut down to 5/8" high. A full height block won't allow enough play. I layed a .082" bit onto the surface of the tool where the block rides. Push the bit all the way to one side and lay the block into the tool and on top of the bit. The block is now cocked in the tool (one side higher than the other). Lay the tool onto a flat surface and push the block down into the tool so the low side fits flat against the tool then clamp it there. Check to make sure the bit is still pushed up against the one side and not angled at all. I did need to put 2 pieces of paper between the side of the block and the tool so it would fit snug on the side and be square.

I placed the smooth end of the #43 bit into the hole of the tool and in far enough that it touched the block. I placed a square against the side of the block and made sure the bit was square to the block (no toe in or out.) If it isn't perfectly square try angling the tool on the block with the slight freeplay it may have until the bit is square to the block. Re-clamp. Remove the bit from the tool and install in drill. I sprayed the bit with silicone so I could slide it into the hole smoothly and not be cocked in the hole. Drill the hole.

Move to the other side and do the same thing.

I placed the #43 bit into the axle holes and checked again for square (no toe in or out). Both rears came out exactly perpendicular to the block and both angled at 2.5 - 3 degrees.

Since my DFW will be bent down I tried using the raised hole in the tool to drill this one. I didn't come out straight. I used super glue gel and a toothpick to fill it back in. I then redrilled it straight with the regular hole in the tool. Again, before I drilled it I placed the bit into the hole and checked it for square to the block before drilling it.

I installed three straight, polished stock BSA axles and added 17 cubes to back and rolled her 48". She steered 1/4" in 48". I think this will be good enough to make sure my rears are straight before installing my bent DFW. This will now be this year's car.

If you don't like that the axles aren't super tight in the holes (no slop though) then add a dab of water into the hole and it will tighten right up. Let a drop from your finger lay on top of the hole then tap the block so it falls in. Blow into the hole to spread it around. Also, someone else told me to drill your 2 glue holes under each axle because they will side easier as air won't be trapped in the hole. When you're done messing with the axles then glue them in. After you take them out once the hole will still be tight.
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sporty
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by sporty »

davet wrote:My Pro-Body tool had become useless because the holes were slightly elongated now after drilling about 15 blocks however the next size up bit (#43) wouldn't fit. I went to Michael's and bought their Revell tool ($14.00 or so) for drilling axle holes (red anodized). The bit that came with it was only .076" diameter and was sloppy in the holes. I thought I had just wasted $14.00. My #43 bit however, fit snugly with no wiggle. I twisted the bit by hand through the holes and it spun freely, still very snug.

I grabbed a block that was cut down to 5/8" high. A full height block won't allow enough play. I layed a .082" bit onto the surface of the tool where the block rides. Push the bit all the way to one side and lay the block into the tool and on top of the bit. The block is now cocked in the tool (one side higher than the other). Lay the tool onto a flat surface and push the block down into the tool so the low side fits flat against the tool then clamp it there. Check to make sure the bit is still pushed up against the one side and not angled at all. I did need to put 2 pieces of paper between the side of the block and the tool so it would fit snug on the side and be square.

I placed the smooth end of the #43 bit into the hole of the tool and in far enough that it touched the block. I placed a square against the side of the block and made sure the bit was square to the block (no toe in or out.) If it isn't perfectly square try angling the tool on the block with the slight freeplay it may have until the bit is square to the block. Re-clamp. Remove the bit from the tool and install in drill. I sprayed the bit with silicone so I could slide it into the hole smoothly and not be cocked in the hole. Drill the hole.

Move to the other side and do the same thing.

I placed the #43 bit into the axle holes and checked again for square (no toe in or out). Both rears came out exactly perpendicular to the block and both angled at 2.5 - 3 degrees.

Since my DFW will be bent down I tried using the raised hole in the tool to drill this one. I didn't come out straight. I used super glue gel and a toothpick to fill it back in. I then redrilled it straight with the regular hole in the tool. Again, before I drilled it I placed the bit into the hole and checked it for square to the block before drilling it.

I installed three straight, polished stock BSA axles and added 17 cubes to back and rolled her 48". She steered 1/4" in 48". I think this will be good enough to make sure my rears are straight before installing my bent DFW. This will now be this year's car.

If you don't like that the axles aren't super tight in the holes (no slop though) then add a dab of water into the hole and it will tighten right up. Let a drop from your finger lay on top of the hole then tap the block so it falls in. Blow into the hole to spread it around. Also, someone else told me to drill your 2 glue holes under each axle because they will side easier as air won't be trapped in the hole. When you're done messing with the axles then glue them in. After you take them out once the hole will still be tight.
15 cars out of the tool. Wow.
I've have 4 of the pro body tool. I usually get atleast 40 cars or more. I built allot of cars. Did kids use it ?

The work shop s where I shared the tool. The kids miss use. Is what mine ran into a shorter life span.
I use to ream it out for next size up. For other classes of racing. ? .o43

I've done 10 cars and two semis in past few months all posted here. So far. Still very good snug fit in the tool with drill bit.
aluminum has its down falls. Light. Don't rust easy. Or corrosion. But softer then steel.

Pics of the Revell and mod be cool to see.
sporty
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davet
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by davet »

I'm guesstimating on the 15 blocks because many holes were experiments. I wasn't confident that I could get the holes in the Pro-Body tool straight if I tried to make them bigger. We've only actually built 3 complete cars. My boy drills the holes and sometimes I could see the metal coming off of the tool as he drilled.

I'll try to put up a pic tonight.
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by gpraceman »

davet wrote:I'm guesstimating on the 15 blocks because many holes were experiments. I wasn't confident that I could get the holes in the Pro-Body tool straight if I tried to make them bigger. We've only actually built 3 complete cars. My boy drills the holes and sometimes I could see the metal coming off of the tool as he drilled.
Are you using a power drill? If that is the case, it is better to use a pin vise. That will prolong the life of the tool.

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Stan Pope
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by Stan Pope »

gpraceman wrote:
davet wrote:I'm guesstimating on the 15 blocks because many holes were experiments. I wasn't confident that I could get the holes in the Pro-Body tool straight if I tried to make them bigger. We've only actually built 3 complete cars. My boy drills the holes and sometimes I could see the metal coming off of the tool as he drilled.
Are you using a power drill? If that is the case, it is better to use a pin vise. That will prolong the life of the tool.

Image
Randy is "right on" with this comment.

In addition, the original instructions that accompanied my PBTool showed holding the block at the opposite end while drilling. In my opinion, this invites side forces on the drill bit that cause the guide hole to be "wallowed out."

My preference is to hold the block on opposite sides of the planned hole, pinching the block between my thumb and one (maybe two) fingers. Holding in this manner reduces the tendency to force the drill against the sides of the guide.

Also, there may be a tendency for younger users to have the bit spinning as it is inserted into the guide. NO!!!!! Don't do that!
Stan
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by ngyoung »

I'll pile on as well. Use a pin vise. My kid got a little impatient with having to use it but you definitely prolong the life of your jig. Before I got deeper into the PWD rabbit hole your solution was exactly what I was planning to do with my red PBtool. The bit that comes with it should be a #44 gauge bit. Using #43 I think still holds the stock BSA axles snuggly when I helped my son with his. I do like to make that tiny air relief hole for air as well but I don't ever glue. I still may put water in the DFW hole to make it a little tighter to resist any movement just in case it gets bumped.
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davet
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by davet »

Why did I never think of a pin vise? Probably because I don't have one and I'm a touch lazy. I don't see them in my local hardware type stores.
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by gpraceman »

davet wrote:Why did I never think of a pin vise? Probably because I don't have one and I'm a touch lazy. I don't see them in my local hardware type stores.
Many of the online derby suppliers, like MaxV, have them.
Randy Lisano
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by ngyoung »

Hobbylobby has a cheapo one that just barely fits a #43 bit
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by whodathunkit »

What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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davet
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by davet »

ngyoung wrote:I'll pile on as well. Use a pin vise. My kid got a little impatient with having to use it but you definitely prolong the life of your jig. Before I got deeper into the PWD rabbit hole your solution was exactly what I was planning to do with my red PBtool. The bit that comes with it should be a #44 gauge bit. Using #43 I think still holds the stock BSA axles snuggly when I helped my son with his. I do like to make that tiny air relief hole for air as well but I don't ever glue. I still may put water in the DFW hole to make it a little tighter to resist any movement just in case it gets bumped.
I think it was a post you had that mentioned the relief holes that gave me the idea. I had drilled them before on other cars but usually not until I needed to glue the axles in.
The water drops works very well but the hole seemed to loosen after about 15 minutes. It worked well while I was trying different axle/wheels combos though.
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by gpraceman »

Maybe instead of a drop of water, use a bit of wood glue in the hole just prior to inserting the axle.
Randy Lisano
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by whodathunkit »

Dap brand.. Wood Swell & Lock.
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx ... ubcatID=24

I woulden't let the kids use this stuff.. look up the msds on it.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by Vitamin K »

I've seen it suggested to take a toothpick, add a dab of Elmers (or Wood Glue) and insert it, twist a bit, remove. Then let it dry, and the residual glue will snug your hole up.
gpraceman wrote:Maybe instead of a drop of water, use a bit of wood glue in the hole just prior to inserting the axle.
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sporty
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Re: Another canted hole option

Post by sporty »

I've used water. But prefer elders glue. But these days I just drill a good tight hole.
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