Derby Talk

Per local rules---cannot cant any axles. So what can I do to make sure wheels stay "out", especially on rear? I mean years ago, during the alignment process---I always ended up with a shim or two on bottom of rear holes to make sure wheels stayed out to head. Looking at those cars now, I see that the rear axles have some [junk] cant, probably because I know it is there. It is not very noticeable...probably the thickness of a piece of paper at outside edge of tread.
So a couple of shims is equal to ????degrees. 1?? 1.5??

SPEEDQUEST wrote:Per local rules---cannot cant any axles. So what can I do to make sure wheels stay "out", especially on rear? I mean years ago, during the alignment process---I always ended up with a shim or two on bottom of rear holes to make sure wheels stayed out to head. Looking at those cars now, I see that the rear axles have some [junk] cant, probably because I know it is there. It is not very noticeable...probably the thickness of a piece of paper at outside edge of tread.
So a couple of shims is equal to ????degrees. 1?? 1.5??

So they expect the kids to put the axles into the slots at perfect 90 degree angles? Completely ridiculous.

However, I would feel compelled to abide by this ridiculous rule and treat the body where the hub will rub as best I can. I would use a slide guide or washer if allowed. If not, I like to use CA glue (sanded super smooth) and some wax on top. Others use nail polish (a Sally Hansen brand is popular).

Where this really hurts is not being able to bend the DFW for cant and steer (for rail riding). If there is no rule against toe in I would drill a the front with a slight toe in. I don't know the approximate angle you need, but if you hunt around you might find some information on it. Another way to get steer with straight axles is to cut the block just behind the front wheels, shim it on one side to give you the angle/steer you need, and glue it all back together.

Maximum Velocity sells BSA axles, 10 for $.95. Fortunately, BSA axles are not very good. If you have patience, and 50 axles, put them in your drill press one at a time and set the 3 most bent ones aside. You might have to test them more than one time. A very slight bend in an axle will direct the light plastic wheel to go where you want it to go. Your Team has followed the rules.

I agree with LB about the surface around your axle holes. Another option is monokote trim sheets that have a peel as stick backing for the sides of the car. Stick on vinyl works too. With BSA parts you could likely play with the inherent flaws in the axles to get them somewhat angled upward, the slop in the wheel more though will likely allow the wheel to sit flat for inspection.

LightninBoy wrote:... I don't know the approximate angle you need, but if you hunt around you might find some information on it.

Start with Drift Translator and Toe Angle Calculator. And if you use a drill press with a well leveled table, see Drilling Holes for Camber and Toe with Computation Aid.

We use to cant 1 degree. With rules like that.

I don't recommend shim. I drilled the cant. But for slots . Glue in the cant.