Pro Wheel Shaver XT -- First Impressions

[Vitamin K]

So, in a moment of wild abandon, I ordered the Pro Wheel Shaver XT, based on what I'd read of folks using it here on DerbyTalk. Thus far, I'm pretty satisfied, and thought I'd share my experiences thus far. If anybody has some suggestions or tips that have worked for them, I'm very happy to hear them.

So here's what I've discovered:

- You're gonna kill some wheels when you first use this thing. It is really easy to cut too deep and gouge a wheel beyond the point of salvation. Grab a pile of old throwaway wheels that you don't want and practice on these.
- Sharpen the blade before you first use it and then every 4-5 wheels. I sharpen it like a chisel, doing interlaced diagonal strokes on the 'flat' side, alternating with wiping it across the stone to match the 15 degree angle on the angled side. Do a few reps on the coarse side of your honing stone, then flip and repeat on the fine side.
- Use little tiny increments when you turn the setscrew to extend the blade. Patience is key. Much better to under-turn and correct than to overturn and gouge.
- I'm not certain how useful this tool is if you don't have a concentricity gauge. After I've shaved the wheel to a reasonable degree, I put it on the gauge to check the roundness. Once I've got to the ~.001" runout threshold, I know that I'm done.

One thing I've noticed that's a little bit annoying is that as the setscrew compresses on the spring, it becomes trickier to make small adjustments without having them "bounce back" to the previous setting. When I try to make a bigger adjustment to get it "stick", that's when I end up gouging the wheel. The solution I've found is to make a small adjustment and hold the knob in place with my finger as I turn the wheel, but it'd be nicer if it would just stay on its own. Anybody have any solutions for this?

[Speedster]

I have an old T.V. tray I set next to me and attach a small vise to it. Put the tool in the vise. You can then turn the wheel with your right hand and hold the adjusting knob with your left hand.
I've come across "files" I think are called finger nail "boards". They have a different grit on each side. I've not tried them yet but hope to soon. I didn't do well using the blade against the wheel. Your sharpening of the blade apparently has made a positive difference. Good Job.

[Vitamin K]

I have an old T.V. tray I set next to me and attach a small vise to it. Put the tool in the vise. You can then turn the wheel with your right hand and hold the adjusting knob with your left hand.
I've come across "files" I think are called finger nail "boards". They have a different grit on each side. I've not tried them yet but hope to soon. I didn't do well using the blade against the wheel. Your sharpening of the blade apparently has made a positive difference. Good Job.

Hmm, I might have to try that vise idea. Though I do it backwards, being a lefty...hold the dial with my right, turn the wheel with my left.

Let me know how the experiment with the emory boards goes. I do need to find a solution for the final sanding/polishing step. I guess I could just throw them on the mandrel and spin them in my drill press, but if I could do everything on the same tool, I think that would save me time.

[whodathunkit]

Vk,
You might try bowing the cutting blade at the top of blade.
It will make the cutting blade fit tighter if it's lose in the tool plus make the adjustment knob stay tight as well
Check out the Derby Worx Tech tips videos for there fix.

[Vitamin K]

Vk,
You might try bowing the cutting blade at the top of blade.
It will make the cutting blade fit tighter if it's lose in the tool plus make the adjustment knob stay tight as well
Check out the Derby Worx Tech tips videos for there fix.

Saw that...have to admit I'm a tiny bit hesitant.

I wonder if I a piece of scotch tape on the back of the blade would make it a tighter fit in the tool.

[ngyoung]

Funny how DW have videos to tell people how to modify their tool to make it work right. I guess I am crazy to think that when you buy something new you shouldn't have to "fix" it before you can make it work.

[Vitamin K]

Speedster: Do you true the inner rim of the wheels with the shaver? Trying to decide if this is worth the time or not. Would it have a marked effect for running canted rears?

[Speedster]

I don't shave the inside rim because of our rules. I've been around so long everyone in the District knows me, plus I work for the District, and I never want to be accused of cheating. Whether shaving the rim would be an advantage I really don't know.

[Vitamin K]

Speedster: If you get some time, I'd be interested in a little write-up on your methods with using the Shaver with sandpaper and file. While I'm pretty happy with the way the blade works (when sharpened), the sandpaper approach is 1) more in line with our Pack/District rules and 2) might possibly be easier for my kids to do on their own.

Wondering if I should try to obtain a used, dull blade (possibly flatten the edge some more with a metal file) for use as a sandpaper holder?

[Speedster]

I simply cut a piece of sandpaper 3/4" x 2" and hold it in place with duct tape. With the flat file I hold it over the blade and turn the wheel with my other hand. I think for the scouts the emory board will be the easiest and most fun. As the board fills with plastic it can easily be moved to a clean area. Probably a small improvement can be made to a wheel but the main benefit will be educational. I suspect even the youngest scout will understand what he's trying to accomplish. The wheel will be easy to turn and will not dig like it does when using the blade.

[Vitamin K]

I simply cut a piece of sandpaper 3/4" x 2" and hold it in place with duct tape. With the flat file I hold it over the blade and turn the wheel with my other hand. I think for the scouts the emory board will be the easiest and most fun. As the board fills with plastic it can easily be moved to a clean area. Probably a small improvement can be made to a wheel but the main benefit will be educational. I suspect even the youngest scout will understand what he's trying to accomplish. The wheel will be easy to turn and will not dig like it does when using the blade.

When you tape the sandpaper in place, does that prevent the blade from being able to extend? Where do you attach the tape?

[Speedster]

Lay the sandpaper over the top of the blade and extend the blade so it puts a little pressure on the wheel. Then tape the sandpaper to the tool on each side where it measures 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". As you extend the blade the sandpaper will get tighter and tighter. The sandpaper is fairly strong and will wear out or fill with plastic in the spot where it is sanding before it will break. Once the spot is worn out simply reposition the sandpaper.