My son and I are making our first Pinewood Derby car and I've been researching all I can on how to make a fast one (within the confines of the rules). In my research, it seems wheel prep is a major component (which makes sense, as it's the only moving part of the car).
Graphite is the most common means of lubrication and the only one allowed by our Troop. However, one of the issues with graphite, is keeping the stuff where it's needed most -on the axle.
I was wondering if anyone has tried using positively charged graphite powder, so that it is attracted to the metal axle and the static cling, keeps the graphite on the axle longer. There are some fairly simple ways to imbue the graphite powder with a strong positive charge and ways to ground or temporarily, negatively charge the metal axle. If you've ever seen something powder coated, it uses the same process (as does a photocopier).
I've searched the forum, but cannot find anything.
Any info or opinions would be appreciated.
Do you use the Lemon Pledge (aka silicon oil) and graphite at the same time?Speedster wrote:Some believe the axle doesn't hold graphite. I like to concentrate on the wheel bore because that goes around. We polish our axles with Brasso, coat them with Lemon Pledge, give them a light buffing, and that's it. We do not sand our axles.
I don't know if they would "gunk" up when mixed.
What about wiping the car body down with it also ?Speedster wrote: We polish our axles with Brasso, coat them with Lemon Pledge, give them a light buffing, and that's it.
I'm sure you've seen the web sites that talk about using the pledge on the car body as well.
use the search in the up-er right to check out the.. how long do your wheels spin topic for more info on this.