rail riding -the 1/16"
Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:57 am
2 cars were brought to us this year because of wobble. We set the cars dfw with 1 1/2 degrees of Positive camber and toe-in. That corrected the wobble. The body of the car was not narrowed the common 1/16". I noticed the rear wheels were centered over the rail. The car had stock BSA wheels and axles. The dfw sits straight up and down because of the clearance between the bore and the axle. When I narrow the body a 1/16" on the cars I build I notice the rear wheel behind the dfw always is closer to the rail then the rear wheel on the other side. On Page 87 of Build a Winning Pinewood Derby Car I think the picture is not correct. I think narrowing the body of the car a 1/16" will not center the rear wheels. I think with the 1 1/2 degrees of Positive camber and toe-in on the dfw with stock parts you are better off to leave the body at its full width. My experience with the 1 1/2 degree camber the dfw will not ride on its outside edge. Using the Derbyworx tool where you lift up to make the bend it takes 2 degrees to barely get the inside edge off the ground.
I do not understand the recommended 1 1/2 degrees of Positive camber and the narrowing of the car body 1/16" behind the dfw when using stock parts. I think 2 1/2 degrees of positive camber, toe-in, and leave the car body alone would be far more beneficial.
I welcome all thoughts.
I do not understand the recommended 1 1/2 degrees of Positive camber and the narrowing of the car body 1/16" behind the dfw when using stock parts. I think 2 1/2 degrees of positive camber, toe-in, and leave the car body alone would be far more beneficial.
I welcome all thoughts.