rattle from tungsten weights

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whodathunkit
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Location: Forgan, OK

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by whodathunkit »

If your rattle is coming from.. front to back.. meaning when you pick up the front and then the back up when your hearing the weights rattle.
This might hurt you a little in speed.
I would not worry so much if its a side to side rattle with the weights.. in less your car running with the death rattle meaning the rear swerves side to side!
An easy fix for the weight rattle..
might be to drill a small hole where your weights are and try to pound a tooth pick or small dowel rod with some glue on it to tighten the weights up.
This could work for a front to back rattle as well when your glue is dry test for weight rattles.. if none then cut off the excess rod and sand smooth to the body
then just touch up the paint in the drilled areas.

For canting the rears with a solid pine car axle..
could you not flip the car up side down and take a hack saw blade to deepen the axle notch by 1/16 on the out sides of the body where you wheels would be.
By marking the center line of the car body and using that as your starting point as you start your cut from there with the outer edges of block being just a 1/16 deeper.
The center of the car would be your bend point for the axle.. and now you can drive the ends of the axle deeper by 1/16'' giving you some cant when you flip it back over.

Same for lifting one front wheel as well or angling your front axle
by using one side on the outer edge of the block as your starting point.. and then cutting the next beeper.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
msxd
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:26 am
Location: Chicago, IL

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by msxd »

Speedster wrote: Thu Jan 23, 2020 10:09 am msxd, my apologies. I need to be more careful. I didn't know anyone used a single axle even though you had told me.
Is this a kit? Where would I get one of these.

If you think about it, if the axle is bent down on the right side and up on the left side you end up with Positive camber and toe-in on the right side and Negative camber and toe-out on the left side. That's what we need. The rears would be easy to do. The Pro axle bender, using it very, very carefully, should give us what we need. Can you buy these axles separately? I'm looking forward to my summer project.
Speedster, the pinecar model that comes with the single axles is P370I. Here is the link:

https://pinecar.woodlandscenics.com/sho ... 70I/page/1
msxd
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Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:26 am
Location: Chicago, IL

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by msxd »

whodathunkit wrote: Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:06 pm If your rattle is coming from.. front to back.. meaning when you pick up the front and then the back up when your hearing the weights rattle.
This might hurt you a little in speed.
I would not worry so much if its a side to side rattle with the weights.. in less your car running with the death rattle meaning the rear swerves side to side!
An easy fix for the weight rattle..
might be to drill a small hole where your weights are and try to pound a tooth pick or small dowel rod with some glue on it to tighten the weights up.
This could work for a front to back rattle as well when your glue is dry test for weight rattles.. if none then cut off the excess rod and sand smooth to the body
then just touch up the paint in the drilled areas.

For canting the rears with a solid pine car axle..
could you not flip the car up side down and take a hack saw blade to deepen the axle notch by 1/16 on the out sides of the body where you wheels would be.
By marking the center line of the car body and using that as your starting point as you start your cut from there with the outer edges of block being just a 1/16 deeper.
The center of the car would be your bend point for the axle.. and now you can drive the ends of the axle deeper by 1/16'' giving you some cant when you flip it back over.

Same for lifting one front wheel as well or angling your front axle
by using one side on the outer edge of the block as your starting point.. and then cutting the next beeper.
Its a side to side rattle of the weights so I decided to leave it alone. Thanks for the helpful advice about canting. Will give it a shot next time. For our first car, we decided to not mess with the axles. Will report on how it does in races tomorrow.
Loud2ns
Master Pine Head
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Posts: 107
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:50 pm
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by Loud2ns »

msxd wrote:
whodathunkit wrote: Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:06 pm If your rattle is coming from.. front to back.. meaning when you pick up the front and then the back up when your hearing the weights rattle.
This might hurt you a little in speed.
I would not worry so much if its a side to side rattle with the weights.. in less your car running with the death rattle meaning the rear swerves side to side!
An easy fix for the weight rattle..
might be to drill a small hole where your weights are and try to pound a tooth pick or small dowel rod with some glue on it to tighten the weights up.
This could work for a front to back rattle as well when your glue is dry test for weight rattles.. if none then cut off the excess rod and sand smooth to the body
then just touch up the paint in the drilled areas.

For canting the rears with a solid pine car axle..
could you not flip the car up side down and take a hack saw blade to deepen the axle notch by 1/16 on the out sides of the body where you wheels would be.
By marking the center line of the car body and using that as your starting point as you start your cut from there with the outer edges of block being just a 1/16 deeper.
The center of the car would be your bend point for the axle.. and now you can drive the ends of the axle deeper by 1/16'' giving you some cant when you flip it back over.

Same for lifting one front wheel as well or angling your front axle
by using one side on the outer edge of the block as your starting point.. and then cutting the next beeper.
Its a side to side rattle of the weights so I decided to leave it alone. Thanks for the helpful advice about canting. Will give it a shot next time. For our first car, we decided to not mess with the axles. Will report on how it does in races tomorrow.
Good luck! I hope you guys do well!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Speedster
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Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:48 pm
Location: Toledo, Ohio

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by Speedster »

msxd, Thanks for the info. I see Michaels carries the model. We have a Michaels close to the Hobby Lobby Store I've been active with. I'll be returning to Hobby Lobby to see if they have restocked any of the 3 oz tungsten cylinders. 40% off 1 item getting it for about $14.00 is too good to pass up. This is the cheapest anyone will be able to buy this much tungsten since there is no shipping cost involved. My scouts use a lot of 3/8" weight, both lead and tungsten.
msxd
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Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:26 am
Location: Chicago, IL

Re: rattle from tungsten weights

Post by msxd »

Speedster wrote: Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:37 pm msxd, Thanks for the info. I see Michaels carries the model. We have a Michaels close to the Hobby Lobby Store I've been active with. I'll be returning to Hobby Lobby to see if they have restocked any of the 3 oz tungsten cylinders. 40% off 1 item getting it for about $14.00 is too good to pass up. This is the cheapest anyone will be able to buy this much tungsten since there is no shipping cost involved. My scouts use a lot of 3/8" weight, both lead and tungsten.
Cool. Let me know what you think of the axles when you get them.

Michael's discounts are great. I bought most of the materials for making this car from Michaels when they had 50% off. Pinecar XLR8 ultragraphite after discount was almost the same price as the regular Hob-E-Lube graphite.
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