Derby Magic Track

Discussions on buying, building or rehabbing a race track. Topics like plans, materials, tools, construction, finishing, commercially available tracks, and so on.
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gpraceman
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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman » Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:53 pm

Spawn wrote:What about the possibility of using 1x2 and then putting screws through the guide rail? This would thereby eliminate any effect of wheels running over screw heads, and I can't imagine anything on the cars that would make contact with screw heads in the guide rail.
I would still countersink the holes. No use ever running the risk of any low hanging weights or car parts hitting the screw heads.

Sounds like a lot of work for something that should really be assemble and go.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn » Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:06 pm

I agree completely. I actually meant to put that the holes in the guide rail would be better served as countersunk holes. It would be much better if it were an assemble and go setup, and I've proposed a modification to the manufacturer just now. We'll see what he has to say about the proposal. The only reason that I can think of for having the joining plates in the area where the PWD cars run is that this leaves you with the possibility/feature of being able to flip the track over and run Hot Wheels vehicles in the upside down guide rails without anything blocking them off.



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman » Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:20 pm

Spawn wrote:The only reason that I can think of for having the joining plates in the area where the PWD cars run is that this leaves you with the possibility/feature of being able to flip the track over and run Hot Wheels vehicles in the upside down guide rails without anything blocking them off.
If it wasn't for their "wiring conduit" (which is a feature I like), I would say to just run the diecast cars between the lanes. A flip-up type of gate would be needed if that were the case.

Some do a MatchBox derby for the younger kids then go right into the regular race for the older kids. I don't think you would want to go flipping the track over between those events. It just seems to be asking for problems and causing delays.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn » Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:32 pm

I suppose that this is true. You wouldn't really want to be flipping the track over in the middle of a derby, unless you'd practiced it and were able to keep the time to accomplish it quite short.

Is there anyone here on Derby Talk that has actually used or happens to own this track and is willing to comment on it?



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler » Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:32 am

That would work. That is essentially how I mount my solenoid start gate to this particular track. See
http://www.newdirections.ws/images/MagicMount1.gif
http://www.newdirections.ws/images/MagicMount3.gif


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:14 am

John, in this application do you predrill holes for the screws to go into the blocks? Are they simply just wood screws, or do you happen to use machine screws/bolts and have the nuts placed in the block?



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:18 am

I make start gates, finish lines, and light trees. I don't get involved in modifying the MagicTrack, although I am quite familiar with it, and have samples of it here that I worked out design details and photographed assembly steps.

The thickness of the track material is only .056". If you countersink to make a flat head screw flush, there is going to be very little holding power. This is the basis of my earlier suggestion of using double sided foam tape as the assembly method.

One additional observation: The larger edge channel can be used as a cable duct if done right. But I did have a problem reported to me: I use modular cable, and it goes in fine, but you can't get it back out the way you put it in. For future Magic customers, I will be supplying modular plug on at one end, and stripped and tinned wires at other end. I will supply a terminal block. This way, the cable goes in the slot, but is pulled out the full length of the track when disassembled.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Spawn » Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:24 am

John Shreffler wrote:I make start gates, finish lines, and light trees. I don't get involved in modifying the MagicTrack, although I am quite familiar with it, and have samples of it here that I worked out design details and photographed assembly steps.
I realize that, and unfortunately I wasn't clear enough in my question I suppose. What I meant was do you predrill the block on your starting gate? However, now that I think of this, I suppose that this would be impossible for you to do, as you would have no way of knowing what the track owner has done for their track to mount the gate. It's a shame my brain doesn't follow through on all of the possibilities of my questions before my fingers type things out!



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:51 pm

I have the same problem. For the start gate, I tell them to put two holes
on the straddle guide center lines, and I supply #6 x 3/8 panhead screws.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by Bulldog » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:49 pm

John,
I hate hijacking this thread, but I have a question (or maybe a comment) about your start gate. I love the concept. Activating by remote control from the audience is a fantastic idea!

But frankly, the way you have it written up scares the buhjeebies out of me..... If you run an empty lane or two, it does not work properly? It also seems that it will not work properly in different class races, where cars can weigh more than 5oz, or in a tractor-trailer race? Am I reading that correctly?



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by John Shreffler » Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:05 pm

You are reading correctly. I use a rather small solenoid which overcomes the balance of forces between the cars trying to open the gate, and a tension spring keeping the gate upright. You must be willing to monitor and adjust for changing conditions. But this is very fast and simple.

I could use a huge solenoid and a very strong spring, and cover all situations. I could also use two solenoids, one to keep the gate closed, and toggling to the other solenoid to pull the gate open. Both of these techniques are workable.

At the moment, I am providing only the version described. Mainly because I have invested in a large quantity of small solenoids. When they taper down a bit, I will reconsider the design. So far, very few complaints.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by DerbyStanger » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:54 pm

Hi all, I am interested in one of the two tracks: Best or Derby Magic.

I liked the lightweight PVC, but after reading about the screws and the Starting gate spring reversed, I may opt with the Best. Im only using it for testing cars, so a 2-lane is all I need.


1. Is it worth for my use the extra $50 or so for the Best Track?
2. HOw much different is the weight b/t the 2?

3. Are there any other options for "lightweight" tracks?

Thanks
RC


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by gpraceman » Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:17 pm

Looks like our feedback has had an affect. I notice that their start gate now snaps open via spring and the stop section ramps have been replaced with "belly boards". These are a big improvement. Though, it still appears that there are screws in the surface of the track where the wheels run.


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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by timtrain35 » Wed May 13, 2009 9:17 am

Hey guys, i just wanted to bump this thread to see if anyone has actually put their hands on this track. Pro's, con's, reviews......anything????



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Re: Derby Magic Track

Post by timtrain35 » Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:20 pm

Another shameless bump. I just checked out their site again, and there are new photos posted on their site. The connecting screws, apparently, have been removed from the "running" portion of the track and have been replaced with a washer assembly in the middle of the lanes (where the wheels aren't). If this is all true, it might push me over the edge. Check it out and let me know if I'm looking at this right. Thanks.



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