Our first 2010 car

[roosclan]

Here's the car shot with Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. I think that I need to sand it back down and get a better surface below it.

Beautiful! I definitely need to get the gold mirror chrome for my Webelo1's car. What did you use to clear coat it (or did you)?

[shawnr5]

I haven't clear-coated it yet. I might just try the Minwax polyurethane that Sarge used before I sand it back down and respray it. It might be the gloss I need, if it doesn't react with it.

[roosclan]

I haven't clear-coated it yet. I might just try the Minwax polyurethane that Sarge used before I sand it back down and respray it. It might be the gloss I need, if it doesn't react with it.

It should not react; however, polyurethane and lacquer are not compatible. If the Mirror Chrome is a lacquer, you won't get binding of the two, and the Minwax will come off rather easily (flake/peel), if tape is used as a mask. If the Mirror Chrome is an enamel, then you won't have any problems.

Spaz Stix recommends a water-based clear when Mirror Chrome is used on an external application. With that being said, Pledge Future Floor Finish is an excellent clear coat to use.

[PinewoodTopia]

I am curious, you dont have an issue with the car "wadering" back and forth only using 3 wheels? I did a crocadile car, the wheels were offset (see pic), it wanders left and right something terrible.

[Darin McGrew]

The alligator car is beautiful!

A lot of rail-riders are essentially 3 wheel cars, designed so the raised front wheel never touches the track, the guide rail, or anything else. They deliberately steer into the rail slightly to avoid wandering.

[PinewoodTopia]

so wheel alignment is crucial, that may be where I had my issue

[FatSebastian]

so wheel alignment is crucial, that may be where I had my issue

PwT, looking at your awesome alligator car, I am also wondering where the center of mass (balance point) falls. If the COM comes too close to the rear axle, there isn't enough pressure on the front (steering) wheel to adequately control direction, thereby allowing the car to wander back and forth.

[PinewoodTopia]

Thanks, I have to admit, COM is something I have never considered, I have no idea where it is, I would guess it is more towrds the rear od the car, as on our track, rear dominate weight seems to be the key to good speeds.

[TOU]

I haven't clear-coated it yet. I might just try the Minwax polyurethane that Sarge used before I sand it back down and respray it. It might be the gloss I need, if it doesn't react with it.

Hey Shawn,

Nice car. Coincidentally we also went for a chrome finish this year. One thing I noticed is it is a bit harder to work with...and "oxidizes" if touched. So...I too was thinking about putting on a clear coat to help. I used a spray can Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish over a can of spray on Kiltz (oil base.). The Rust-Oleum has taken longer to dry than I thought (supposed to be fast drying) and mars more easily as it seems to remain soft. (primer was hard or seemed to be when we sprayed the paint.) So...my question is to what to use Minwax Polyurethane? Minwax Clear Gloss Aerosol Lacquer or Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish?????

Any help you all could lend would be deeply appreciated. (BTW...it can't be tacky and needs to eb dry as the race is on Saturday morning. On that note, I guess tomorrow-night is the last day to spray....

[roosclan]

I haven't clear-coated it yet. I might just try the Minwax polyurethane that Sarge used before I sand it back down and respray it. It might be the gloss I need, if it doesn't react with it.

Hey Shawn,

Nice car. Coincidentally we also went for a chrome finish this year. One thing I noticed is it is a bit harder to work with...and "oxidizes" if touched. So...I too was thinking about putting on a clear coat to help. I used a spray can Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish over a can of spray on Kiltz (oil base.). The Rust-Oleum has taken longer to dry than I thought (supposed to be fast drying) and mars more easily as it seems to remain soft. (primer was hard or seemed to be when we sprayed the paint.) So...my question is to what to use Minwax Polyurethane? Minwax Clear Gloss Aerosol Lacquer or Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish?????

The Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish is an enamel, and thus, it will take longer to dry, especially if sprayed on in a few thicker coats as opposed to many very thin coats (think- each one barely covering the car). The Minwax Aerosol Lacquer will wrinkle your finish. Use the Polycrylic instead, or Pledge Future floor finish.

Any help you all could lend would be deeply appreciated. (BTW...it can't be tacky and needs to eb dry as the race is on Saturday morning. On that note, I guess tomorrow-night is the last day to spray....

If your enamel is still tacky, then the Future is your best bet. It dries quickly, although the paint underneath will still be soft for quite some time.

[*5 J's*]

Must be the year for metallic's. My boy decided he wanted gold, so we picked up a can of Krylon Metallic Gold - I have coated this with Minwax Clear Gloss "Fast Drying" Polyurethane with no issues. Looks Great. However, I can tell you from experience - if you put on a second coat, don't accidentally grab your can of Acrylic Clear Gloss instead of the Minwax - that will wrinkle bad - (and quickly).

[TOU]

Hey All,

Just a quick update, I will never use this paint on cars again. I put on three medium...not heavy but not light coats on it. When first done it looked AMAZING and then some! Over the three days of letting it cure the "chrome" look started to oxidize...which is why I considered a clear coat. So after waiting on all this time, I tried to replace the wheels and axles. As soon as I started to squeeze it at all it would leave finger prints. So I decided to handle it with a cotton dish towel...no luck there as it left ever so slight imprints. Smooth chrome look is gone...no time to repaint so I guess we run it as is and just try to sand it down and repaint it after races.

On a different note, it looks like we were able to accomplish a Rail Rider but I am still worried about resistance. It will be an interesting experiment as I'm not sure we really know what we are doing or if it is essentially misaligned. I'm thinking it is a reeeally fine line. Sorry for the digression...