Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
OK this is my son and I's first PWD, my son's car won his entire pack race and is now going to District race, our car has drilled axles, and our axles are extremely tight with no glue.
I seen in the rules sheet that was given to us that the Axel tips if drilled, must be visible, how are you all doing this? and how can I or should I achieve this with out totally messing up our car?, I can pull the axles but I really hate to do that because the car runs perfect, and I hate to drill the car and mess up the weight of the car.
I don't want to have him get DQ'ed or break a wheel or bend an axle trying to remove them.
Do I have to have only one Axel tip visible or must all Axel tips be visible?
I have asked for clarification from several in our pack, to what we have to do or show, but cant get an answer, doesn't seem like anybody knows?? or if they even really check?
I would love to see how some of you show the axles if you got Pics.
Thanx
I seen in the rules sheet that was given to us that the Axel tips if drilled, must be visible, how are you all doing this? and how can I or should I achieve this with out totally messing up our car?, I can pull the axles but I really hate to do that because the car runs perfect, and I hate to drill the car and mess up the weight of the car.
I don't want to have him get DQ'ed or break a wheel or bend an axle trying to remove them.
Do I have to have only one Axel tip visible or must all Axel tips be visible?
I have asked for clarification from several in our pack, to what we have to do or show, but cant get an answer, doesn't seem like anybody knows?? or if they even really check?
I would love to see how some of you show the axles if you got Pics.
Thanx
- Stan Pope
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Well, if the rule says "tips" then I'd show 'em all! Mark each axle's location, orientation and depth of insertion. For instance put a mark at 12 o'clock on the axle head. Measure the space between wheel and body.
If you used shims for alignment, I hope you kept good records of how many and where! You should ultimately replace the whole shebang of shims!
Perform alignment table roll tests and note exactly how each wheel acts when the car is rolled forward and backward. Also note the path followed by the car. Record this so that you can compare after reassembly.
Before removing the wheel/axle, put a nail along side to see exactly where the tip of the nail will be in the car. Mark the correct spots for each axle.
To remove ... I have usually pulled 'em with balanced pressure on the wheel rim, but if they are really tight, that could damage the outer edge of the bore. Then you should perhaps put protective tape on the jaws of pliars, use 'em to grasp the nail head gently / firmly and pull straight out. You don't want to bend the axle! But you appear to know that already. Fish out any shim material.
A quarter inch diameter depth hole drilled approx 1/8" deep from the bottom of the car should do it. You want the minimum possible amount of nail exposed ... just half the tip, I think. (Maybe carry a pocket VOM that can work as am electrical continuity tester (ohmmeter), so if they ask if they are connected, put one probe on each end of the axle and show zero resistance!) Each such hole will remove approximately 0.002 oz of pine with a total of less that 0.01 oz removed. That weight difference might be measurable in the 4th decimal digit of a timer. If you're compulsive, run a short bead of hot glue somewhere midway between the 4 holes and trim it back until weight is right on.
Then return the wheels, axles and shims each in its correct location, orientation and depth. Verify unchanged operation on the alignment table. Add some graphite, maybe, and work it in. You should be good to go!
Your pack leaders don't seem to know how to make the contacts ... here is stuff you need to know:
Your district PWD uses rules set by district volunteers, usually scouters like you or your pack leaders, except that they have been around for a few more years, but still haven't learned how to say "No." Those volunteers may have published details on the district or council web site or maybe not. They might even have a Questions & Answers page that already has the answer to your question. In any case, the website would probably have some contact information for PW questions!
If the website angle doesn't pan out, then you can ask the district professional Scouter (district executive) who you can talk to to get the question answered. Most DE's can be reached through email or a phone number at the BSA Service Center that serves your council and district or at monthly Cub Scout Leader Roundtable meetings. The DE may give you an answer to your question, but you really want to talk to a knowledgable volunteer! DE's are seldom knowledgable about the details of technical activities like PWD's! In fact, its a good chance that you will find the district pinewood derby chairman at the roundtable meeting ... you just have to ask who he/she is! But watch out ... you might find yourself on the district's race committee! If they ask, try to find a way to say, "Yes." It will be a blast and you will make some interesting new friends!
If you used shims for alignment, I hope you kept good records of how many and where! You should ultimately replace the whole shebang of shims!
Perform alignment table roll tests and note exactly how each wheel acts when the car is rolled forward and backward. Also note the path followed by the car. Record this so that you can compare after reassembly.
Before removing the wheel/axle, put a nail along side to see exactly where the tip of the nail will be in the car. Mark the correct spots for each axle.
To remove ... I have usually pulled 'em with balanced pressure on the wheel rim, but if they are really tight, that could damage the outer edge of the bore. Then you should perhaps put protective tape on the jaws of pliars, use 'em to grasp the nail head gently / firmly and pull straight out. You don't want to bend the axle! But you appear to know that already. Fish out any shim material.
A quarter inch diameter depth hole drilled approx 1/8" deep from the bottom of the car should do it. You want the minimum possible amount of nail exposed ... just half the tip, I think. (Maybe carry a pocket VOM that can work as am electrical continuity tester (ohmmeter), so if they ask if they are connected, put one probe on each end of the axle and show zero resistance!) Each such hole will remove approximately 0.002 oz of pine with a total of less that 0.01 oz removed. That weight difference might be measurable in the 4th decimal digit of a timer. If you're compulsive, run a short bead of hot glue somewhere midway between the 4 holes and trim it back until weight is right on.
Then return the wheels, axles and shims each in its correct location, orientation and depth. Verify unchanged operation on the alignment table. Add some graphite, maybe, and work it in. You should be good to go!
Your pack leaders don't seem to know how to make the contacts ... here is stuff you need to know:
Your district PWD uses rules set by district volunteers, usually scouters like you or your pack leaders, except that they have been around for a few more years, but still haven't learned how to say "No." Those volunteers may have published details on the district or council web site or maybe not. They might even have a Questions & Answers page that already has the answer to your question. In any case, the website would probably have some contact information for PW questions!
If the website angle doesn't pan out, then you can ask the district professional Scouter (district executive) who you can talk to to get the question answered. Most DE's can be reached through email or a phone number at the BSA Service Center that serves your council and district or at monthly Cub Scout Leader Roundtable meetings. The DE may give you an answer to your question, but you really want to talk to a knowledgable volunteer! DE's are seldom knowledgable about the details of technical activities like PWD's! In fact, its a good chance that you will find the district pinewood derby chairman at the roundtable meeting ... you just have to ask who he/she is! But watch out ... you might find yourself on the district's race committee! If they ask, try to find a way to say, "Yes." It will be a blast and you will make some interesting new friends!
Last edited by Stan Pope on Tue Feb 27, 2007 12:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
Stan
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
- gpraceman
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
I'm sure they are going to want to inspect all of the axle tips to make sure they are nails, not machined pins.
We drill a 1/4" hole perpendicular to each axle to ensure the tips are visible. In your case, you may be able to partially pull the axles out, drill the inspection holes and then push the axles back in. Weight-wise, you really will not be removing barely any. Of course, you can always add some weight to compensate for what you removed.
We drill a 1/4" hole perpendicular to each axle to ensure the tips are visible. In your case, you may be able to partially pull the axles out, drill the inspection holes and then push the axles back in. Weight-wise, you really will not be removing barely any. Of course, you can always add some weight to compensate for what you removed.
Last edited by gpraceman on Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Randy Lisano
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Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
Romans 5:8
Awana Grand Prix and Pinewood Derby racing - Where a child, an adult and a small block of wood combine for a lot of fun and memories.
- Stan Pope
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Randy's approach may serve you better ... but do something to keep from blowing sawdust (drill dust) into the wheel bores! Maybe some masking tape and paper to cover the edges of the car on out well past the wheels!
Stan
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
"If it's not for the boys, it's for the birds!"
- Go Bubba Go
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Agree with Stan and Randy, pull out slightly, cover well and slowly (less flying sawdust) drill the holes.Stan Pope wrote:Randy's approach may serve you better ... but do something to keep from blowing sawdust (drill dust) into the wheel bores! Maybe some masking tape and paper to cover the edges of the car on out well past the wheels!
If you are paranoid about the sawdust (I can be, in a "healthy" way, of course...) then trace out small squares with a hobby knife where the axle tips are and use the pointy end of a good steak knife to "flick" out the wood.
The 2nd method falls under the "Requires Patience", "Better done by Dad", and "Don't tell the Mrs. (about the Steak Knife)" categories.
"Who's Grandpa's neighbor?"... Phil Davis, Down and Derby
Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
A dremel tool with the reddish stone pointy bit cuts to the axle tips pretty easily.
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
WOW! I thought I was the only one who used names like that for the Dremel bits....festiva91 wrote:A dremel tool with the reddish stone pointy bit cuts to the axle tips pretty easily.
*****************************
Richard Sava
Cubmaster, Pack 241
Deltona, FL
*****************************
Any day racing PWD is a good day but winning makes a better good day!
Richard Sava
Cubmaster, Pack 241
Deltona, FL
*****************************
Any day racing PWD is a good day but winning makes a better good day!
Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
OK now I'm confused, I have a copy of the actual rules, the drilled Axle rule as written =
The axle must be set in wood, with the head of the axle exposed for inspection. Axel may not be shaved, tapered, rounded or angled to minimize contact with wheel
Now I'm confused, do they mean the tip ( point of the nail ) or the flared part ( the hammered end) that would be visible outside of the wheel?
what would you consider the Head of the Axle or nail?
I'm not trying to read in between the lines of the rule, but how do you read it? I don't want to drill the car to show axle tips if I don't need too, but I don't want to get DQ'ed by shoty worded rules.
The axle must be set in wood, with the head of the axle exposed for inspection. Axel may not be shaved, tapered, rounded or angled to minimize contact with wheel
Now I'm confused, do they mean the tip ( point of the nail ) or the flared part ( the hammered end) that would be visible outside of the wheel?
what would you consider the Head of the Axle or nail?
I'm not trying to read in between the lines of the rule, but how do you read it? I don't want to drill the car to show axle tips if I don't need too, but I don't want to get DQ'ed by shoty worded rules.
- Go Bubba Go
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Check with your local PWD chairman / rules guru.SMOKE wrote:OK now I'm confused, I have a copy of the actual rules, the drilled Axle rule as written =
The axle must be set in wood, with the head of the axle exposed for inspection. Axel may not be shaved, tapered, rounded or angled to minimize contact with wheel
Now I'm confused, do they mean the tip ( point of the nail ) or the flared part ( the hammered end) that would be visible outside of the wheel?
what would you consider the Head of the Axle or nail?
I'm not trying to read in between the lines of the rule, but how do you read it? I don't want to drill the car to show axle tips if I don't need too, but I don't want to get DQ'ed by shoty worded rules.
As it is written above, I would think the rule is meant to exclude certain fenders, hub caps, or other "covers" that would preclude inspecting the head, not the tip.
But, my opinion is not the one that counts, it is that of your local person.
"Who's Grandpa's neighbor?"... Phil Davis, Down and Derby
Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
It does say in another paragraph in the rules that you cannot use stickers or anything to cover the outer wheel hub.
What is funny is getting a straight answer from the powers that be, seems the rules are almost left open to be read in between the lines and allow speculation? even the term tip or head is up for debate with them, lol
What is funny is getting a straight answer from the powers that be, seems the rules are almost left open to be read in between the lines and allow speculation? even the term tip or head is up for debate with them, lol
- CuriousGeorge
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Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
Have you ever heard the expression: "You hit the nail on the head"?SMOKE wrote:The axle must be set in wood, with the head of the axle exposed for inspection. Axel may not be shaved, tapered, rounded or angled to minimize contact with wheel
Now I'm confused, do they mean the tip ( point of the nail ) or the flared part ( the hammered end) that would be visible outside of the wheel?
what would you consider the Head of the Axle or nail?
Wikipedia defines the head of a nail as:
Head - round flat metal piece affixed to the top of the nail; for increased holding power
CuriousGeorge
"They say you learn by your mistakes, in that case I must be a genius."
"They say you learn by your mistakes, in that case I must be a genius."
Re: Showing Axle tips on a drilled car?
I guess they mean the nail head, where the hammer hits it. Does it mean no hubcaps?