Competitive times?
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Competitive times?
Our pack runs on a fredom 40' anodized aluminum track. What kind of time do we need to achieve to be competitive? We've build standard wheel bases as well as extended and don't see a real differnce in times.
Re: Competitive times?
For our 42' tracks, a fast time is sub 3.0 sec. So I'd look for something under 2.9 seconds... let's check some math.
So, 42 ft = 14 yards. (we're ignoring the inches of the start gate and finish line for this example)
Your car doing this in 3.0 seconds goes 9.5454 mph.
Going this same 9.54 mph for 40 ft (or 13.333 yards) gives a time of 2.85 seconds.
So get UNDER 2.85 seconds and you're good to go. BTW 2.75 sec would equate to running 42' track in 2.90 sec.
thank you,
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/b ... _calc.html" target="_blank
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm" target="_blank
So, 42 ft = 14 yards. (we're ignoring the inches of the start gate and finish line for this example)
Your car doing this in 3.0 seconds goes 9.5454 mph.
Going this same 9.54 mph for 40 ft (or 13.333 yards) gives a time of 2.85 seconds.
So get UNDER 2.85 seconds and you're good to go. BTW 2.75 sec would equate to running 42' track in 2.90 sec.
thank you,
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/b ... _calc.html" target="_blank
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm" target="_blank
My wife started a new support group... Widows of the Pinewood Derby.
Re: Competitive times?
Holy Moly! So I need to get near 2.2sec at 30' 9" to be "FAST"? But that would be oiled. I'm still graphite yet. I'm told I could easy knock off .3-.4 with oil done right. Maybe that should be .03-.04. If so, I'm REALLY slow. Not sure if that was comparing to graphite done right. I think with a test track I can get another .06+ on my graphite.rpcarpe wrote:For our 42' tracks, a fast time is sub 3.0 sec. So I'd look for something under 2.9 seconds... let's check some math.
So, 42 ft = 14 yards. (we're ignoring the inches of the start gate and finish line for this example)
Your car doing this in 3.0 seconds goes 9.5454 mph.
Going this same 9.54 mph for 40 ft (or 13.333 yards) gives a time of 2.85 seconds.
So get UNDER 2.85 seconds and you're good to go. BTW 2.75 sec would equate to running 42' track in 2.90 sec.
thank you,
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/b ... _calc.html" target="_blank
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm" target="_blank
So thinking conservatively That would put me at 2.27-2.28 area comparatively. Gotta verify the length of the track though. I think its actually shorter than that. Hmmmm... what are the differences in times comparing wood track vs aluminum at a designated length?
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Re: Competitive times?
Boy do I have a lot of work to do!!! Right now, my fastest time is 3.115 on a freedom track.
Re: Competitive times?
I'm going to pull a FatSebastion here...Scratch all your assumptions after you read this thread. Actually found that as a by product of searching for something else.
- Darin McGrew
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Re: Competitive times?
Sometimes, I really appreciate that we don't have a timer, just a finish gate that displays finish order.
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Re: Competitive times?
We don't even have that! Eyeballs and the cub masters high speed camera. 120fps is great. I think it goes to 1000fps.Darin McGrew wrote:Sometimes, I really appreciate that we don't have a timer, just a finish gate that displays finish order.
Shawn
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Re: Competitive times?
Being fairly new to this, I don't have much from the past to fall back on. I'll start to keep a log for future reference. The main goal this year is to be competitive and learn a few tricks to being fast. My test track is an anodized 40' freedom with a K3 timer.
Re: Competitive times?
A track and timer can be very beneficial to you. Let's say you have a very fast car. You've won the pack and on to district. You take 2nd place at District and you watch the winning car beat you by about 3 inches. You take your car home, maybe put a little graphite in the bores, get a time on it on your track and you now have an elapsed time. You know what time you must beat to win over the 1st place car. You might also offer the 1st place winner an invitation to a cook-out and ask him to bring his car. He might like to run it down your track to beat you again. Little does he know all you really want is to see what time he turns on your track. You now know exactly how much faster you need to go. You might also learn how he built his car while enjoying a soft drink and a delicious hamburger. Your Dad will be "grilling" the winner's father while constantly Congratulating him. A million dollars worth of information for the price of a burger.
- FatSebastian
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Re: Competitive times?
That just sounds funny!chromegsx wrote:I'm going to pull a FatSebastian here...
Who knew that Bill was so diabolical!Speedster wrote:A million dollars worth of information for the price of a burger.
Re: Competitive times?
Ive always built extended base cars, Im better at making them faster then stock wheel base cars. But for some it's the other way around.
It takes time, a desire and a want and some money, to want to go fast or super fast. it depends how bad you want it and how hard are you willing to work at it.
once you get into measure and check, meaning axle whole drilling. then thats the base of building skills, that can only grow and make you a better builder.
Sporty
It takes time, a desire and a want and some money, to want to go fast or super fast. it depends how bad you want it and how hard are you willing to work at it.
once you get into measure and check, meaning axle whole drilling. then thats the base of building skills, that can only grow and make you a better builder.
Sporty
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Re: Competitive times?
Thats the direction I think I am heading Sporty. I do have a pro body tool to drill the axel holes but need to learn more about drilling axel holes. Just trying to see how fast we can make this little chunk of wood go!
Small world. I grew up just accross the river from you in Sterling.
Small world. I grew up just accross the river from you in Sterling.
Re: Competitive times?
First off, I must compliment you on your user nameIckabod Crane wrote:Thats the direction I think I am heading Sporty. I do have a pro body tool to drill the axel holes but need to learn more about drilling axel holes.
Second, If you want to learn to drill axle holes correctly, learn how to drill your rear axle holes canted. I am sure the veterans here on DT will agree.
There are only two seasons: baseball season and The Void. - Jonathan Yardley
Re: Competitive times?
Ickabod wrote:... If you want to learn to drill axle holes correctly, learn how to drill your rear axle holes canted. I am sure the veterans here on DT will agree.
Drilling holes correctly was a big learning process for me.
First make sure your drill press table is square. There are many posts about building a tool to check this using a dial gauge.
Next - once you verify the table is correct - take two boards and drill them and insert a blank into each hole. Rotate one board 180 degrees and hold them together - If you drilled a perfectly straight and square hole the blanks will be parallel - if they make a "V" - they are not. I think Stan has a good post or webpage on this.
You now need to work on the process - I run the drill at the fastest RPM (can't remember but I think it's 1350 on my drill press). I chuck the bit into the chuck as far as it will go without being on the fluting. Then I slowly bring the bit down and start the hole. Go slowly and back off often to let the sawdust clear.
After I drill I have some drill rod stock that I insert into the hole to check squareness (and correct cant). If all looks good, I put wheels in the drill rod blanks - put a bit of weight on the back and let the car roll on my tuning board. I look for the rear wheels to migrate out when the car is run forward and backward.
If it meets these tests - it now a drilled body ready for further work - if not, it becomes a piece of firewood
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Re: Competitive times?
Does this replace bending the axels with the Rail Rider tool? what is the advantage? Soooo much to learn!