Now Available: The Clear Drill Jig

[Skywalker Racing]

STAR CARS is pleased to now offer The Clear Drill Jig on our website.

The Clear Drill Jig is easy to use and results in a very accurate drill. My own two Scouts used the jig to win Pack and District last year, and I'm excited to make these available to all Scouts at a very reasonable price point.


Click here to order


NEWLY AVAILABLE!!! With the new 5-bushing model, it's never been easier to rail ride. This model is designed to drill a dominant front axle hole that will give your car about 4 inches of steer over 4 feet WITHOUT having to bend axles or tune.


PS - New products and videos coming soon. Stay tuned!

[bobcatbrown520]

STAR CARS is pleased to now offer The Clear Drill Jig on our website.

The Clear Drill Jig is easy to use and results in a very accurate drill. My own two Scouts used the jig to win Pack and District last year, and I'm excited to make these available to all Scouts at a very reasonable price point.


Click here to order


NEWLY AVAILABLE!!! With the new 5-bushing model, it's never been easier to rail ride. This model is designed to drill a dominant front axle hole that will give your car about 4 inches of steer over 4 feet WITHOUT having to bend axles or tune.


PS - New products and videos coming soon. Stay tuned!

Will it do a raised wheel?

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

[Skywalker Racing]

Will it do a raised wheel?

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the question.

It does not have a 0 degree bushing set higher for a raised wheel, no. But in all my experience, I've never needed to drill higher to achieve a raised wheel when rail riding because of the lift the bent axle on the dominant front (steering) wheel gives the front end.

If not rail riding, or if you just want that thing higher than it needs to be, you could 1) bend the lifted wheel axle to get more height, 2) drill the lifted wheel hole using the 3 degree bushing meant for the rear wheels, or 3) shim the lifted side with feeler gauges, paper or any other method you choose when drilling using the 0 degree bushing.

Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

[Derby addict]

Has anyone used this jig yet? I debating on buying a jig, but, choking on the cost of these things. The $200 for the silver bullet, the wife may divorce me. $115 for this, I could probably hide that from the wife, and then there is The Block for $60, wife would never notice that.

The Block is the cheapest, but the star car and silver bullet look to be easier to achieve perfect alignment with.
I just wondered if anyone had used all three and could critique and compair these products.

[Eagle]

Either the 4 or 5 bushing Clear Jig is the way to go!

[Vitamin K]

Has anyone used this jig yet? I debating on buying a jig, but, choking on the cost of these things. The $200 for the silver bullet, the wife may divorce me. $115 for this, I could probably hide that from the wife, and then there is The Block for $60, wife would never notice that.

The Block is the cheapest, but the star car and silver bullet look to be easier to achieve perfect alignment with.
I just wondered if anyone had used all three and could critique and compair these products.

The "original" Block requires a drill press to use. It also requires a good brake setup on the drill press table. 5Kids has some excellent videos if you want to go that route.

I have one of the clear jigs, and I love it, because it's stupidly simple for my kids to use, and the drills are incredibly accurate as long as you follow best practices.

The $200 dollar "silver bullet pro" gives good drills from all accounts that I have heard. I have not heard anything conclusively proving that either the SB Pro or the Clear Drill is more or less accurate than the other. I just remain unconvinced that there is some benefit to spending $75 dollars more.

[Derby addict]

So are rules require that the axles use the slots provided. It also says that the slot should not be covered completely and that the "center" of the slot be visable. That said is it worth buying a jig? I want to. Run canted rear axles next year and I'm trying to determine if I can drill 3 degree holes in the slots or if I should just get a pro axle guide and an axle bender. Thought/suggestions?

[Eagle]

You not only can drill your slots with the Clear Jig - you should. I fill mine with epoxy first. Still clearly visible, but I don't have to worry about the axles loosening.

[Vitamin K]

You not only can drill your slots with the Clear Jig - you should. I fill mine with epoxy first. Still clearly visible, but I don't have to worry about the axles loosening.

I actually prefer to roll a toothpick in epoxy and insert that into the slot. The reasons are a few:

- Epoxy in slots takes a long time to fully cure for me! Something about it being in there deep and not being able to outgas or something?
- Putting the toothpick in there keeps the material as wood, so you're drilling through a similar density as the epoxy.
- Usually the toothpick doesn't go all the way to the top of the slot, so there's still a clear layer of epoxy over the top, leaving the "look" of the slot intact.

But yes, very valid approach either way you slice it.

[Eagle]

I've done that as well VK. I usually don't worry about the epoxy in the slot. It is mostly just insurance. But, I have had to clean a drill bit or two.

And, I have trouble with epoxy staying sticky all the time. I just did some. Don't know what it was like on the inside. But, it was still tacky a day later. I decided not to wait. Did my sanding and put some CA over the outside and kept on building.

[Vitamin K]

I've done that as well VK. I usually don't worry about the epoxy in the slot. It is mostly just insurance. But, I have had to clean a drill bit or two.

And, I have trouble with epoxy staying sticky all the time. I just did some. Don't know what it was like on the inside. But, it was still tacky a day later. I decided not to wait. Did my sanding and put some CA over the outside and kept on building.

Not sure if it's your issue, but sometimes I have issues with epoxy not curing when I get the ratios wrong, or if I don't mix it long enough before I use it.

Another thing I've done is to mix epoxy with fine sawdust that I collect inside of my bandsaw to make a sort of "wood paste".