Derby Talk

So, I've found a drill press that I think I'm going to buy. Price is $150 and the model is Delta laser drill press, Model # DP300L. Does this sound like it would fit my needs for PWD building? I know it would fit other needs around the house, but is it good for my cars?

AlabamaDan wrote:So, I've found a drill press that I think I'm going to buy. Price is $150 and the model is Delta laser drill press, Model # DP300L. Does this sound like it would fit my needs for PWD building? I know it would fit other needs around the house, but is it good for my cars?

That should be more than adequate.

I got a 12" Ryobi drill press from Home Depot a couple of years ago and it has worked out well for me. It has the laser and a built-in work light. I rarely use the laser, but the work light is handy. This usually ends up being a station for drilling out weight pockets at the workshops that I host. Of course, I put it to use with other projects.

Whatever you get, spend the time to get it setup properly. You do want to make sure that drill chuck is firmly seated and that the work table is perpendicular to the drill spindle (use a good machinists square and check front to back and side to side alignment).

gpraceman wrote:Whatever you get, spend the time to get it setup properly. You do want to make sure that drill chuck is firmly seated and that the work table is perpendicular to the drill spindle (use a good machinists square and check front to back and side to side alignment).

Great point, Randy!

About a year ago, I documented a process that doubles the precision for measuring squareness ... or is that "cuts the measurement error in half"? See http://www.stanpope.net/drlpress.htm. The machinists square is good to have but is not needed for my process.

This process should allow the drill press to be used for axle holes that are as true as those from the ProBody Tool. The drill press also allows flexibility to use spacers to drill with holes with accurate camber and/or toe! (I'll document some tables someday that relate spacer size and location to toe and camber angles.)

Is it too much? Should I just buy the one from Harbor Frieght for $75?

AlabamaDan wrote:Is it too much? Should I just buy the one from Harbor Frieght for $75?

You could, but I would at least get the one that gives you a hand crank to change the height of the worktable. The cheaper ones don't, so you have to hold the table at the height you want and then tighten it down. That is a bit of a pain.

When it comes to tools, bargains usually aren't. You pay for it year after year in frustration and inaccuracy.

In my opinion, when puchasing a tool, get one that is better than you need. Then you won't regret it, or outgrow it.

I have the DP300L. It's OK, but not great. I don't know of any that are better without being twice the money or more.

I find the table not to be as flat as I'd like; mine has a broad depression about 0.009" deep or more. Perfectly acceptable for many purposes, but if you're thinking of drilling holes with The Block, you may not see the accuracy you wish.

I measure less than 0.001" runout in the quill (absent the chuck), and about 0.002" TIR for the unfluted part of a #44 bit in the chuck. I think this improves if the chuck isn't tightened so hard.

The lasers are completely useless in my experience.

/JEP

I own the Harbor Freight drill press. It works great for everything, but I was never quite happy with the way it did axle holes.

If you are strictly looking for axle holes, might I recomment either the MicroMark mini drill press, or for a bit more, the Proxxon.

Most folks find them to be dead on with runout and table squareness. I bought the MicroMark and am estactic with it. With a dial indicator on it, I get no movement on the needle, measuring to .0005

I do not do anything else on it outside of small holes. No wheels, or axles. I use my Harbor Freight.

Hope it helps.

I picked up the Delta. It hasn't ever been assembled. So in my garage right now is a new drill press, bandsaw and track. I'm nuts according to my wife.

Almost a year since anyone responded to this post but here goes.

I also purchased a Delta DP300L in Jan. of 2011. My motivation was to drill axle holes. I first set the table as accuratly as possible with a machinist square which got it really close. However, as far as the front to back level on the table, it is off a thou or two. I think if I can insert a shim between the colum post and the table collar, I can get it better.

I use an adjustable angle block to set the block of pine into and clamp it in. When i want to drill holes with no angle, I set the adjustable angle block to 0 degrees. When I want cant, I will set it to 2.5 degrees or what ever I want. So far, it has worked out great. I use a carbide #44 bit. I stick little wooden rods into the axle holes about 3 inches long, lay the car flat on a table and view the car from the head on position, and my eye sight level with the table top. You can see the front axle rods are horizontal with the table and the rear axle rods are negative canted. This is what I'm looking for.
So for me the Delta DP300L has been great.

I had previously purchased an inexpensive drill press from Menards. It was the shortest of the 3 benchtops they had. Normal price was $79. On sale one evening it was $60, and the next day it was on sale for $50, so I purchased it. I set it up and the run out was horrible. So I packed it up and returned it.

The other great thing about the Delta is I can use it for heavier purposes in the garage.

Hope this helps.

Good advice. Thanks so much.

AD, just as a quick followup on the Delta, as I have used it for a month or so now, it took me a while to get the axle holes correct. It seemed that i would drill one hole on one side of the car, then flip it around to drill the other side and they would not match.

So finally, I spent about 2 hours trying different adjustments and got it aligned correctly. I then used Stan's method to check and it has come out perfect. The only problem is if I need to drill for any other type of project and need to move the table, I will have to re-align it again which could take more significant time.

I have been thinking about getting a different type of drive belt. It looks like the old BSA belts I use to make for my pants when I was a kid, or should I say about 50 years ago. It is suppose to make it run quieter with less vibration making for more accuarate holes. I saw it at Woodcraft but do not remember the cost.

I also have been thinking about taking the table and having the surface decked to make it perfectly flat, as mine has a very small depression in it.

sirslotalot1 wrote:I have been thinking about getting a different type of drive belt. It looks like the old BSA belts I use to make for my pants when I was a kid, or should I say about 50 years ago. It is suppose to make it run quieter with less vibration making for more accuarate holes. I saw it at Woodcraft but do not remember the cost.

I recommend the 'link' belts, esp on table saws and band saws. Even with a misaligned setup, vibration is often cut by a very noticable amount.

I have not used on the drill press yet, Mine uses two belts, and will take a bit of work to size in the replacements. But it is a planned idea.

http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offe ... ct=Details" target="_blank

I really enjoy having the drill press. I polish my axles in it and feel it's better control than a dremel. I also can't imagine drilling a hole in anything without it anymore. I used it to press my axles/wheels into the car last night. It's becoming one of those tools that I keep finding more and more uses for.

Ya, the link belt is exactly what I am talking about. Great customer reviews from the Rockler web site also. I think I will be getting some sanding drums just to try it out.