The rules in our district and pack say no longer than 7 inches. So is trying to "Win by a nose" creating more problems in the rear of the car?
I intend to leave about 3/8 - 1/2 inch of body behind the rear wheels. Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated. Especially if any of you out there have tried this.
Your car will still be 7". What you are doing is shifting the wheelbase. This will move the COM a little higher up the arc.
I'm assuming you are using the long end for the front. You can only cut off 5/16" if you're really careful. The wheels cannot extend past the rear of the car because the car will then be longer than 7". You will still have room for 2 rows of 6 - 1/4" tungsten cubes. I'm assuming you are building a 1/4" high car that will look like a Hershey Bar. On extended wheelbase cars the rear axle holes are drilled 5/8" from the rear of the car. The long nose will clear the Best track curve OK. Maximum Velocity did a test on this and the improvement was so small it's not worth the effort. I use to do it regularly but we either won or lost by a much greater margin and I stopped doing it. If you are a beginner it is far better to concentrate on other things such as wheel and axle prep, weight placement, tuning, 3 wheelers if allowed, rail riding, etc.
Have lots of Fun.
However, axles may only be polished and burrs/crimp marks removed. I'm interested in cambering wheels for rail riding but am weary of drilling the correct angles into the block. I believe the track is short (40ft or less?). Is or are there methods of drilling these angles properly to achieve this?
Thanks again for your or anyone's advice.
Tell us about yourself. Have you been building cars for awhile? Is this your 1st car?
And to answer about myself, no, this isn't my first derby. I am a father of 4, and had my oldest son go through 4 derbies. However, my last car was built 4 years ago, and the 3 cars built by my oldest and I, were all more for looks rather than speed. With him, I found that anytime I would begin to even try and research speed tips, tricks, etc., he would either lose interest in the concept or not put forth the effort or patience needed to be successful. So design and paint were always the focus. So there was always this cool looking car rattling down the track... In last place.
My new scout, on the other hand, as we spoke about designs and looked at other designs on line would always question the design with," Does it go fast?" So I think with this boy, I have a new creative direction to go in. Speed!
But as I've researched the last week, I started seeing more and more differing opinions as to the "best practice" for this tip or that technique. So as I run into a couple of derby threads, this has seamed like a great place to start and have discussions that I hope I can translate into some good father/son moments learning more about science, physics, and creation together.
"Build a Winning Pinewood Derby Car", by Troy Thorne, 2013 Edition. Fox Chapel Publishing, $9.99.
Once you and he read it you will have the basics. There is also a search function on Derbytalk where I'm sure there is an answer to any question you might have. That's not to suggest you should not ask questions. If you are in a Super hurry for the book, email me. I can get one to you faster than the publishing company. I stock them because I offer them for sale at our workshops. I can't find these at Hobby Lobby or Michaels anymore. I had to get them from Fox Chapel.
Fast & Furious speed tips and tricks.
By David Meade, Troy Thorne,
And other derby experts.
There is also lots of info and car patterns to chose from in this one.
Might try looking on line or at target for it.
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But my 8yr old seems as if he's all about speed! Good news for me, as he has a 6yr old coming in next year that his mother and I swear that he's so OCD, he'll have me starting him on his car right after His older brother finishes the pack race this year.
Can't thank you all enough for this kind of site, and replies. I've been on so called "active" blogs for other topics and wait weeks and sometimes months for any type of replies. Lots of enthusiasm and good dads/moms on here.
If you will email me your mailing address I will send you this book, no charge. Share it with your friends.
So on the other body, I decided to not drill the slots and place axles until after it set up a day. Have any of you out there done either, or both, and if so, what was more successful? The jury is still out on this as we have two weeks before race day to find out. Initially, I'm thinking drilling after filling slots with epoxy would make for a tighter more accurate axle insertion.
This is what I do. I first use the Part # 5140 Pro-Body Tool and drill the rear slots with the # 44 drill bit the tool comes with.
When it's time to install the axles I use the # 5149 Pro-axle Guide and clamp it to the car. I remove the steel guide on the side of the tool and use a notched, plastic credit card for spacing between the car and wheel hub. The steel spacer on the tool can do a lot of damage to the wheel hub. I push the nails in with the drill press. If you don't have a drill press the #5150 Axle install support can make installing axles a lot easier. The rear wheels have (so far) migrated out to the axle heads both rolling the car forward and rearward. We are allowed to run on 3 wheels. We build - sort of - rail riders. Last Saturday at our District race it was obvious "wheels need to be straight up and down" was not enforced. If it doesn't weigh more than 5 ounces it will probably pass. Our dfw also sits straight up and down because of the clearance between the axle and bore even though it is set with 1 1/2 degrees of Positive Camber.
That's our build.
Speedster wrote:Get in your car and drive to Curtice, Ohio and I'll pick you up. My wife's going to West, Virginia for a few days on the 24th. I'll have a nail waiting for you and we'll run it down the track.
I've done some crazy stuff for my family Speedster! But driving over two hours for a straight nail? I may be better suited to invest that gas money and buy about 8 - 10 new BSA kits.