HELP

Discussions related to building cubmobiles.
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

what keeps the brake from dragging the ground? Is the handle weighted or leveraged more to the top? And or could a light spring be used?

There seems to be a lot to look over and learn, right in the middle of PWD time. We're trying to work on five cars, and deal with a possible new project in June that needs introduced and started soon. :shock:
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

My neighbor has a wheelchair type business. I may have to hit him up for a sponsorship, or a set of wheels for testing. :wink:

I'm also seeing a lot of entry/registration fees. What is the purpose? To cover the trophy expense? Just curious. I'd rather try and avoid an entry fee, especially in the first year when we are trying to drum up interest. Like I said before, hopefully if we can incorporate the race into our community events, we could get some local sponsorship to cover some or all of our expenses.

Stephen's Dad, I tried sending you a message a few days ago(to get way off subject) about pumpkins. What would you recommend for growing in dry Colorado, that could get to a couple hundred lbs max?
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sporty
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Re: HELP

Post by sporty »

I have 4 of the comtech wheels, they were $5.00 each. Which I thought was cheap.

However, my test times, showed the wheels to be very slow .


My web site has pictures of 2 cubmobiles.

I have also detailed instructions and building.
not on the site though
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sporty
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Re: HELP

Post by sporty »

Brake,

take a look at the pictures on my web site.


We used a rubber washer on the front and back, it kept it stiff and did not move on its own. Coming off the ramp and holds it in place.


Sporty
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

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What brand wheels would you recommend. We have a few farm supply type stores around, as well as Harbor Freight, Home Depot, Lowes , etc. I would think the price would be an issue. First year introduction should try to be cheap as possible.

I would also appreciate as many different rules that people have as possible. Then we can compare and formulate our own.
clemsontigerfanatic
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Re: HELP

Post by clemsontigerfanatic »

I just found out our District Cubmobile race has been cancelled. :wall:
I just spent some more money this year getting red farm and fleet red wheels and paint. Oh well Guess we will just play with it in the neighberhood.

The one thing about those wheels is that they were pretty tight going over the axles and the center part comes out pretty easily.

When you get wheels make sure they meet the rules as far as dia and thickness.
You want the biggest dia wheels as rules allow 12" usually and as narrow as rules allow 1.25- 1.75".
I notice on the soapbox car they don't put any washers between the cotter pin and wheel. The cotter pins are pretty close to the wheel also
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

Well right now we have no rules, so we'll have to establish rules and decide on wheels. Why now washer between the wheel and cotter pin? To reduce the possible friction while the wheel spins I'm assuming?
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sporty
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Re: HELP

Post by sporty »

My only quess would be that,

they have done this, to make the wheels secure so they will not come off easy. But also it create less of a precision precess.

Creates more wobble and so forth. To try and allow a factor of the rider playing the bigger role, versus car.

It could just be, so that the inspectors can see if any mods have been done. Also keep in mind most soap box derby races. the drivers swap there wheels with other drivers. during the race.

To help reduce cheating. The design or set up, is to likely factor in taking them on and off quick during the race.

this rule is to allow that the wheels are not modified and the other driver gets to run with them on the car.

It is not the winner of the 2 heats than may end up winning. its going to be buy tie differance of the win times. that determines the winner.


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Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

As for wheels, some rules state that the tread must be 1 3/4" . What if some wheels have no "tread" to begin with. What is determining the actual width? From sidewall to sidewall, or should the wheel actually have "tread".
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sporty
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Re: HELP

Post by sporty »

Hmm,

Well each pack is different on that, Our pack just says must be hard rubber.

If rules say a certain width must be met. I would gather they just would get a ruler and lay it on the ground and with the wheel on top of the ruler.
Or something like that. to come up with the width.

Tread, no tread should not make a differance. Might be harder to check the size.
In regards to checking the thickness / width.

So many packs vary from one to another on some of those finer rules.

Are you trying to combine rules to create your own ? or get a understanding on what the inspectors should look for with a set of rules already in place ?

Sporty

If i had a chance to start or be in charge for the very first start, creation of a cubmobile race. I would go with all the drivers much use the same size and type of wheel.

Alot of Cubmobile races dont do this.
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

We are looking at trying that. We are hoping to find a good wheel and then maybe just issue that with the car. For most rules in other packs (yours included), do they consider just the actual width of the wheel from sidewall to sidewall and not necessarily the "tread". If we can't get a group of wheels for our whole pack, we may establish a wheel rule. So I'm just trying to get a general clarification.
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sporty
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Re: HELP

Post by sporty »

I would say sidewall to sidewall.

Since some tread can be narrower than the sidewall. (rubber part of the wheel) (that is placed on the rim of the wheel)

Measurement -

Should be any part of the wheel that could, not exceed or exceed the width of the wheel, or not be wide enough of the overall width of the wheel.


Wider wheels = Better control of the vehicle.

Narrower wheels = Less control of the vehicle.

Weight of the wheel is also a factor. If you are looking at strict or detailed rules.


What I have seen in the our packs, past inspections. If it stands out, a further look is needed.

Overall length of the Cubmobile, Width, Height.

I have not seen them get out the tape measure, is what I am trying to say. I think there main concern is safety and if it stands out from the other cars, they might take a look at it.

I think since the cars are harder to build than a PWD dar. Thay allow for some error.

For example, if the car is 1/4 off in a few area's. The are not going to address it.

If its off 3/4 of a inch. They will address it.


I feel they also factor in, if it was a builder mistake or done with the intentions to gain some edge.
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

Just to update things, all of the dens have not had their meetings this week to discuss it, but from those that have learned about our first annual cubmobile race, we have several interested people. I have a couple parents/leaders interested in helping plan and conduct the race. The town is looking at our proposed race site for final approval, but we have been told that we WILL have somewhere to race near all of the festivities. Since my family is part of the parade committee, I know the boys will be in the parade with their cars. Things are looking good. A lot of things to take care of still, but we are on the right track. I'd like to thank Sporty for his extensive help so far, not to mention the other individuals that have responded to my plea.

Thanks

We'll keep everyone up to date as we go, including race day. It's nice to see the scout spirit increase rather than decline.
Smell of pine
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Re: HELP

Post by Smell of pine »

Just an update...

We had a car spec/rule meeting Sunday and came out with a nice set of minimal but safety concious rules that allow ingenuity. We hand out the specs/rules to the kids at our PWD weigh-in tomorrow, and again at the race this Saturday.
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