BSA Razor Wheel

[ranman106]

Would anyone care to explain how to make a stock BSA wheel into a razor wheel? BSA lettering must show.

I would like to do this for our outlaw race. We can only modify the parts that come in the "kit".

Thanks!

[ranman106]

Nobody? I have seen these wheels on WIRL.

[JOKER]

Would anyone care to explain how to make a stock BSA wheel into a razor wheel? BSA lettering must show.

I would like to do this for our outlaw race. We can only modify the parts that come in the "kit".

Thanks!

You need a minimum of five (5) things:

• -wheel mandrel

• -drill press

• -needle file set

• -a large pile of BSA wheels

• -patience

(PM me and I will answer specific questions......good luck!)

[pwdarchitect]

Also A No. 2 exacto blade and a steady hand.


Jim

[JOKER]

Also A No. 2 exacto blade and a steady hand.


Jim

correct!

[Go Bubba Go]

Randy:

Just for kicks, here's my first attempt at "outlaw" wheels.



The pile of circles in front of the car is the cut away tread surface from the 4 wheels.

I ran this car in our Open class last year with the holes in the side of the wheels and a very thin tread. I started with a small drill bit to get a good "center" for each of the 6 holes, then increased drill bit size to cut out more material. I thinned the tread with a "poor man's lathe" (drill press and one of my wife's good steak knives) .

Your post inspired me to go back and slice off most of the tread surface. Note that I left the back hubs stock length (but coned), but cut about half the length off the front hubs to narrow the front path a bit.

We'll see how she does at this year's Open Class race

Not exactly WIRL class, but it was fun to tinker with.

[texasprd]

Fantastic wheels, Bubba! How's the balance?

Was it hard to get the holes evenly spaced, or did you use the spokes to help you position them?

[Go Bubba Go]

Rotational balance is good on 3 of the 4 wheels (as determined by spinning, only 1 "lands" at the same place every time and it is fairly pronounced). When I originally made them, I don't think "wheel balance" was even in my vocabulary. If I had the time (I don't think I will before this year's races - too many other cars to help finish) I would go back to the 4th one and work on balancing it. I think it is mostly an issue of a hole on one side not being cleanly cut and therefore leaving more material (and weight) than the hole on the other side. The heavy (poorly cut) hole always "lands" on the bottom when spun.

I did use the spokes to create the even spacing, but I could not do it "directly" by going with the drill bit size you see reflected in the holes right away. The larger bit kept "wandering" off the spoke hole (I have very limited tools and was just kind of playing at the time so didn't invest the time to create any sort of jig). What I did do was to use a smaller bit first (that would stay centered in the spoke) to drill a pilot hole, and then use a series of larger bits (I think 2 or 3, don't recall right now) to expand the size of the hole to what you see in the picture.

I would inquire of the experienced folks (JOKER, Jim (see string above), etc...) if you are making a more serious effort on the wheels. Mine was more of a "quick and dirty" experiment, although it was fun and I did learn a couple of things. I am anxious to see how they perform in this year's races...

[JOKER]

I would inquire of the experienced folks (JOKER, Jim (see string above), etc...) if you are making a more serious effort on the wheels. Mine was more of a "quick and dirty" experiment, although it was fun and I did learn a couple of things. I am anxious to see how they perform in this year's races...

texasprd,

I'll send you the same instructions I sent ranman106. Hope they help!

[ranman106]

Bubba,

Great job on the wheels. I hope I can get mine done in time. Seems like something new is thrown on the plate every week.

[texasprd]

Thanks, Joker!

I don't know if I can go that extreme (and I'm the leader of our pack rule committee) this year, but I am planning to help my son narrow his wheels - maybe we can go more extreme next year when we have more time and can do two sets of wheels (in case one set gets bounced).

I am curious about balancing - would one just use an X-Acto and scrape a little material off the heavy side?

[JOKER]

I am curious about balancing - would one just use an X-Acto and scrape a little material off the heavy side?

Yes, but I would recommend removing mass from the inside of the wheel to correct balance.......also remember the problem can sometimes be within the bore.

Sorry to get off task here but this is a good tool for balancing (if you don't like the "old school" method of spinning the wheel on a highly polished-lubed axle.

http://www.rlnmachining.com/products.htm

[DerbyAddict]

Joker,
Would you be willing to send me the same instructions you sent ranman106 and texasprd on razor wheels? I would like to experiment.

Thanks

[mokanmikey]

Ok, heres what I have done:

First, using the Pro hub tool, I squared the hub to the bore.

Second, using the idea from Teeeman, I rounded the wheel with a 220 grit Dremmel drum sander.

(Illustration is Teemans, Pics are mine)


Actual Pics




Next I set up a fence on the drill press right next to the wheel and at the height I wanted to cut and cut with a razor knife.



Cut complete!


I then sanded the inside of the wheel smooth, took out all lettering.

I then set up the wheel rounding jig again and using a Dremmel grinding stone.

I turned the wheel upside down (with the hub up) and used the stone on the outside of the hub to make it round with the bore (got rid of balance and wobble problems.


Do every thing else to the wheel you normally do!!

I have not run it yet but have gotten pretty good results with spin tests for roundness and balance.

Good luck!

[Dad of 3]

I have found that cutting with an exacto razor saw blade worked much faster and easier than just the standard razor blade.