FinePine wrote:To get a "level" car that has negative rear camber and positive front camber, the rear holes need to be a bit lower than the front to account for the angles of the axles.
A car with straight axles and axle holes will sit at a height of approximately 0.5435" minus the depth above the bottom that you drill the axle hole (using a nominal wheel of diameter 1.183" with a nominal bore of 0.096").
If the rear axle has a 3 degree negative cant it will only lower the rear 0.0016" (using 1/32" wheel to body gap).
If the DFW axle has a 3 degree positive cant it will only raise the front 0.0192" (using 1/32" wheel to body gap), and that is assuming all 3 degrees of the bent axle is used to provide positive cant, when in reality some will be used to provide toe-in for steering to the rail.
So if drilled all your axles at the same height and had 3 degrees of negative cant on the rears and 3 degrees of positive cant on the DFW the front would only be 0.0208" (less than 1/32") above the rear as measured at the axles. Or another way to look at it is the body would tilt up approximately 1/4 of a degree.
If you wanted to level the car - you would want to drill the rears 0.0208" below the front. However, PBT drills the rears 1/16" above the DFW which will further lower the rear. Using the quoted three degrees of cant I calculate the body will tilt up 1.12 degrees if a standard wheelbase is used. This will give a bit of toe-out on the rears as PBT states. Note sure how this equates to speed. I would think trying to set up level would be best - but PBT has much more experience than I, and experience beats theory anyday.
Somebody may want to verify my math.