The rules:
Plan:The overall length of the car shall not exceed 7 inches. The overall width of the car shall not exceed 2 ¾ inches. The car must have 1 ¾” clearance between the wheels. The car must have 3/8” clearance underneath the body so it does not rub on the track.
The car shall not exceed 5.0 ounces. The official race scale that is used at car check-in shall be considered final.
The official pine wood block must be used. The block may be shaped in any way that is desired. Official BSA wheels and axles must be used. The wheels may not be cut, drilled, beveled or rounded. You may remove the seams and imperfections from the wheels. The axles may be altered, polished and dry-lubricated only.
- Three-wheeled rail riding car
Straight drilled canted axels
Standard 7" long car
5" wheelbase, rear axles 5/8" from back edge
.75 " Center of mass
Flat body, angled nose
- I have read the silver bullet default pin gives a 3° negative cant for rear axels. Is the front axel drilled straight positive canted or horizontal with a bent axel?
If straight drilled positive canted, should I use the same angle as the rear axel?
If bent axel, how many degrees should axel be bent? Recommended tool or should I buy BSA pre-bent?
If I am using straight drilled canted axels, is there any way to fine tune alignment after car is done or am I stuck with what I have?
Is it a good idea to use pro body tool or pro body jig to mark the holes before I drill them with silver bullet or is there a better way?