Hello brand new here.

Secrets, tips, tools, design considerations, materials, the "science" behind it all, and other topics related to building the cars and semi-trucks.
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Speedster here is a link to my car. The back isnt flat. A section of the side is and the entire underneath is flat for easy drilling.

https://www.[no advertising for this vendor].com/funnycar-car.php?a=1
Speedster
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Speedster »

I got the picture. Thank you.
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whodathunkit
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by whodathunkit »

Ok Sleekstak
Im with you now after rereading over the topic and getting the idea on the car design she wants.
Last edited by whodathunkit on Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:19 pm, edited 2 times in total.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
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whodathunkit
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by whodathunkit »

You Wrote: Trying this....thats the car Im ready to purchase.
Yes its not flat as a skateboard or looks like a pencil but being for a 5 year old it has to resemble a car.
She isnt gonna have fun with a hollowed out pencil shaped car with a big oval weight on the back.
And the pic didnt work.

And then you tried this:
Sleestak wrote: Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:21 am https://www.
Ok I'm getting the picture of the car she wants as well Sleestack.
So the car design she has pick out for her car.
Also in looks.. looks a lot like the Pinecar brand funny car P362 seen in this link.
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... 12_5827056
That's a nice looking car design ..

Help me out here..( big oval weight on the back) are you talking about using the oval shaped tungsten canopies for the weight?

Or are you planing on using a flat tungsten disk .. or the slotted adjustable disk .
That fits into 1" round hole that's drilled 15/32 deep and uses 2 tungsten cubes in between the axle tips for a 3.49 oz weight.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Or are you planing on using a flat tungsten disk .. or the slotted adjustable disk .
That fits into 1" round hole that's drilled 15/32 deep and uses 2 tungsten cubes in between the axle tips for a 3.49 oz weight.



I bought a 2 pack of tungston weights that at 3/8" wide and the heaviest on a bit over 1 cm tall. I think I need about 5 of them to get over 5oz. So 4 of them after paint then a little puddy in a small hole drilled in the back of car at registration.
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Yes that is exactly her car.
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whodathunkit
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by whodathunkit »

Happy to help out with an image where i could.
I had problems with posting images when i first started posting here as well .. so please don't fell like your the only one.
This topic might help on how to post Images.. as i would enjoy seeing a photo of your daughters car when it is completed.
And if she fells up to sharing a photo of her car!
We need more car photos of cars built by girls .. after all the pinewood derby is just not for boy's you know.

Here is a link to the image help:
https://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10

Best of luck Sleestak.
Whoda.
What type of automobile can be spelled the same forwards & backwards?
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Morning people. I about have this figured out. Im hoping this question will be solved at the build the derby car workshop. My daughters car just has slots for the tire axles. I want the back tires angled away. The front driver side up in the air and the front passager tire angled in AND turned inward ever so slightly so light rides the rail. I dont know how to to this. I know either drill at an angle or bend the pins. Im unable to do either right now today. Those axel benders are very expensive.

Any tips?
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Regardingbthe question above I did find a website where I can but two 2.5 degree bend polished axels for the back and a one 1.5 degree bent axel for the front. These axels also have a screw head so I can twist them just right. As long as a screw head axel is legal. This would solve my problem at $15 not including shipping.
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Unless I get better ideas from here maybe I just bite the bullet and buy a axel bender. What's another $60??? Bucks.
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Speedster »

Would you please tell me where you can buy these axles for $15.00. Thank You. Also, I would like to caution you, unless the nail is actually a BSA nail the head is not going to be a perfect match. Yes, it probably will be close but if the inspector spots it you are probably breaking the rules.
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Vitamin K
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Vitamin K »

The drill jigs are an investment. They work very well if you buy one of the precision ones, like the Clear Drill Jig.

However, bending axles is not hard to do by hand. Here is my method (Stolen from Stan Pope):

- Get a piece of pine (or other soft wood) about 1x1x3 (The exact dimensions don't matter so much)
- Take a sacrificial axle, put it into a wheel with the head pushed in and mark about 1/8" past where the axle protrudes from the hub
- Make a perpendicular line across in the middle of the block, so that it intersects both long ends
- Take your sacrificial axle and lay it on the wood so that the axle head is over the wood and so that the pointed end is sticking off the end of the wood. Align it so that the shaft is on the drawn line and so that the edge of the wood is at the mark you made previously on the axle.
- Grab the point of the axle with a pair of flat pliers, letting the tip of the pliers butt up against the side of the block. Keeping the axle aligned with the marks, apply pressure so that the head and shaft of the axle are pressed into the wood, and the shaft of the axle that isn't over the wood is bent upwards. You should now have an impression in the wood.
- To bend your axles, place the good axle into your indentation and bend them like you did the sacrificial axle, but use less force to only bend as much as need.

You can use Stan Pope's printed gauge to check your bend angles: http://stanpope.net/pwaxlebend.htm

I've used this method with BSA, Max-V and Awana axles. Not sure how well it would work with stainless steel axles. Those might require a relief notch cut before bending.
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Speedster wrote: Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:57 am Would you please tell me where you can buy these axles for $15.00. Thank You. Also, I would like to caution you, unless the nail is actually a BSA nail the head is not going to be a perfect match. Yes, it probably will be close but if the inspector spots it you are probably breaking the rules.
I just did a googled bent pinewood derby axels and several came up under shopping.

I was told by speedster my rules are pretty relaxed. This is just small time 5 year old girl scouts. Far from the world championships. lol

I found a axel bender you tap with a hammer for $28. I probably purchase this.
Sleestak
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Sleestak »

Vitamin k I will try this. I have several axel to practice on. Thanks.

Do you agree the back axels shoukd angle 2.5% and the front 1.5%. Or should all 3 be 2.5%

Doing this free style by hand Ill be guessing. We just need to beat some 5 year okld girls and their dads who arw not putting the work or money in to it I am.
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Vitamin K
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Re: Hello brand new here.

Post by Vitamin K »

Sleestak wrote: Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:15 am Vitamin k I will try this. I have several axel to practice on. Thanks.

Do you agree the back axels shoukd angle 2.5% and the front 1.5%. Or should all 3 be 2.5%

Doing this free style by hand Ill be guessing. We just need to beat some 5 year okld girls and their dads who arw not putting the work or money in to it I am.
I do 3 degrees on the rears and about 7-9 degrees on the front.
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