Stan Pope wrote:However you make it, it is good to "prove" the surface. Free rolling wheels on it is a fair test!
I put a level across it at the top, middle and bottom before I start. I'll have to try the marble test though.
I replaced both front axels tonight (I had started with the bent axel technique three nights ago), and one front wheel (I didn't like the way it was rolling). Then I started over. After 45 minutes I'm still chasing my tail! The runs down the ramp aren't consistant!
Stan Pope wrote:The technique works for up, fore and aft shimming. Only the down shim need extend out the side of the car.
That's a great idea to put the fore and aft shims in the hole!
Stan Pope wrote:If you find that your preferred axle location does not lie "at the top of the slot", then you can glue in a thin piece of wood at the top of the slot, gently redrill the guide hole for the axle. I've used flat toothpicks with success.
I had to use toothpicks to fix some axel holes in a Cubs car last week. He was the last of the Tigers when I was looking for a fourth kid to go to the District PWD (three others couldn't go). He also had the slowest car in the Pack (4.1 sec ave.)They did everything wrong in the book: burrs on axels; REAL BAD alignment; no graphite; and soft enamel paint on the body. All four axel grooves had at least one split (they hammered the axels in without drilling). There were deep grooves in the paint where the wheel hubs and side tread were rubbing (I sanded and rubbed graphite where the hubs might hit), and the outer hubs were chewed up by the axel burrs (used Pro-Hub tool & burnished bores). I got it rolling straight and smooth, with the wheels running on the heads of the polished axels (the paint is too soft the have the wheels hit the body). I didn't get a chance to time it on my track.