Axles and wheels.

Secrets, tips, tools, design considerations, materials, the "science" behind it all, and other topics related to building the cars and semi-trucks.
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Stan Pope
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

Pinewood Daddy wrote:WAIT!! DUH!! The shim tucks into the hole towards the outside! The axel will pinch it and hold it in place!
If you mean that the tail of the shim goes into the hole and then lays in the slot toward the center of the car, you have got it! :)

The technique works for up, fore and aft shimming. Only the down shim need extend out the side of the car.

If you find that your preferred axle location does not lie "at the top of the slot", then you can glue in a thin piece of wood at the top of the slot, gently redrill the guide hole for the axle. I've used flat toothpicks with success.
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

Pinewood Daddy wrote:My test surface is a 3/4" thick melamine board, 15" X 72", stiffened with two pieces of 1/8" X 3/4" angle iron, leveled side to side.
However you make it, it is good to "prove" the surface. Free rolling wheels on it is a fair test! :)
Last edited by Stan Pope on Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Gravity_Geezer »

Stan naild it again. I was experiencing inconsistant results between my perfectly level alignment table and my perfectly level test track. One would hook and the other would slice. This beat me up for two nights untill I rolled a marble down each. It showed me my hook and slice.
Last edited by Gravity_Geezer on Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Stan Pope
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

Good catch, GG!
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Pinewood Daddy »

Stan Pope wrote:However you make it, it is good to "prove" the surface. Free rolling wheels on it is a fair test! :)
I put a level across it at the top, middle and bottom before I start. I'll have to try the marble test though.

I replaced both front axels tonight (I had started with the bent axel technique three nights ago), and one front wheel (I didn't like the way it was rolling). Then I started over. After 45 minutes I'm still chasing my tail! The runs down the ramp aren't consistant! :?
Stan Pope wrote:The technique works for up, fore and aft shimming. Only the down shim need extend out the side of the car.
That's a great idea to put the fore and aft shims in the hole!
Stan Pope wrote:If you find that your preferred axle location does not lie "at the top of the slot", then you can glue in a thin piece of wood at the top of the slot, gently redrill the guide hole for the axle. I've used flat toothpicks with success.
I had to use toothpicks to fix some axel holes in a Cubs car last week. He was the last of the Tigers when I was looking for a fourth kid to go to the District PWD (three others couldn't go). He also had the slowest car in the Pack (4.1 sec ave.)They did everything wrong in the book: burrs on axels; REAL BAD alignment; no graphite; and soft enamel paint on the body. All four axel grooves had at least one split (they hammered the axels in without drilling). There were deep grooves in the paint where the wheel hubs and side tread were rubbing (I sanded and rubbed graphite where the hubs might hit), and the outer hubs were chewed up by the axel burrs (used Pro-Hub tool & burnished bores). I got it rolling straight and smooth, with the wheels running on the heads of the polished axels (the paint is too soft the have the wheels hit the body). I didn't get a chance to time it on my track.
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by wardrocks »

Is the general belief that shimming is more easily done with slots than with holes? This is my first attempt at formal shimming. I always used trial and error before. Working with the shims and my drilled holes has proven to be a challenge.
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

wardrocks wrote:Is the general belief that shimming is more easily done with slots than with holes? This is my first attempt at formal shimming. I always used trial and error before. Working with the shims and my drilled holes has proven to be a challenge.
Shims are easier with drilled holes than with slots.

Since the tails of the shims are hanging outside the hole, the nail will not pull the shims farther into the hole.

The way you ask the question suggests that you have not read either of the books that describes the process. Bite the bullet, get the book and read it! :)
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by jolly roger racing »

We drill our axle holes in a drill press, after we had alignment problems with our first PWD car 3rd in den. However, we have been bending our axles to do alignment.

Stan mentioned a book? Someone help us with that.

I think I head that groveed axles are a bad idea due to wheel bore wear. Please give use some thoughts whether to "groove or not to groove". That is the question.

[/quote]
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

At risk of incurring wrath ... The info is included in Max V's current booklet. Also, my online book. (I won't "push" my own, but if you want to look at it, I'm sure that you can figure out how to get there.)

Unauthorized versions may have crept into others' booklets by now, but I don't know about that.

I think that Wooden Wonder's tests included some that showed grooved axles superior for NyeOil lube and not-grooved axles superior for graphite lube. Higher pressure (same weight distributed over less area) should cause faster graphite degradation (scrape off?) and reduce the number of good runs you can get out of a lube application. May reach the point where bore wear is comparable to unlubricated case. (Possibly surprisingly, bore wear is an issue with 2 ounce load on an axle and no lubricant!)
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stephen's Dad »

Pinewood Daddy,

How did your boys do at District? I was the organizer of the Pomperaug District PWD & didn't see this post until tonight.

I know the format was a little controversial. But we did the best we could with 73 entrants & no computerized timer.

Another Council-wide race is in the works if there is sufficient interest.

Steve Jepsen
Pack 177

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Pinewood Daddy »

Stephen's Dad wrote:How did your boys do at District?

Another Council-wide race is in the works if there is sufficient interest.
We're in the Sleeping Giant District. Our race is this coming Saturday in North Haven.

That must of been tough judging the races without a timer! :shocked:

I'd be interested in going to the Council race if we place Saturday!
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stephen's Dad »

We're in Pomperaug. He finished first in Pack & third in District.

I felt the race was a great success even if some parents didn't like the format. Since we had 73 cars entered, we chose to leave the fastest car on until it was beaten. The kids found this format very exciting & the race went quickly. Computerized races tend to take too long. I never want to see a Cub Scout yawning at a Distrct race & none of them were. Most were jumping up & down & cheering & this to me is what the PWD should be. Exciting.

Good luck Saturday & look to you email for our "CT exclusive" secret speed tip. LOL

Please keep us posted on the results.

Run straight & true.

YiS,

Steve Jepsen
Pack 177
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Stan Pope
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Re: Axles and wheels.

Post by Stan Pope »

Stephen's Dad wrote:I felt the race was a great success even if some parents didn't like the format. Since we had 73 cars entered, we chose to leave the fastest car on until it was beaten. The kids found this format very exciting & the race went quickly. Computerized races tend to take too long. I never want to see a Cub Scout yawning at a Distrct race & none of them were. Most were jumping up & down & cheering & this to me is what the PWD should be. Exciting.
Steve,

I'm interested to know the details of the method you describe... How do you decide who runs in each heat? and in which lanes? and How do you determine the final trophy places? If you don't want to clog up this thread with it, email would be great!

Stan
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