How to detect after market Nickel plated axles

[TAL]

Some rules state "must use original axles with the kit"...

I know some axles have blunt ends, but if allowing drilled holes, how can you detect after market nickel plated axles?

[gpraceman]

Some rules state "must use original axles with the kit"...

I know some axles have blunt ends, but if allowing drilled holes, how can you detect after market nickel plated axles?

With our district and pack rules, you can drill holes, but the axle tips must remain visible. The tips can simply stick out into a weight cavity or you can drill inspection holes on the bottom.

As for detecting nickle plated axles, I doubt that you could, unless they all have blunt tips.

[Pinewood Daddy]

There's a definite color difference between the 2 finishes. But who wants to examine cars that closely when you've so many cars to inspect in so little time!

[Nitro Dan]

Also, if the person nickel plated the original axles that came with the kit, would that not be considered legal? You can buy small nickel plating kits for around $35. I'm sure one kit would allow you to plate a lot of axles.

-Nitro Dan

[Pinewood Daddy]

Also, if the person nickel plated the original axles that came with the kit, would that not be considered legal? You can buy small nickel plating kits for around $35. I'm sure one kit would allow you to plate a lot of axles.

I think there was a discussion about trying this earlier this year. The advantage of nickel over zinc is that the nickel is much harder and will polish better and not scratch as easily.

Some interesting reading here. http://derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=236

[high roller]

The best way to see if axles are nickel plated would be to get some gun blue and put a drop on the end of a tooth pick. Then touch a part of the axle with it, if the axle turns blue/black they are non-nickle plated. The nickle plated axles will not change color. Hope this helps.

[Dad of 3]

The color test may not always be valid. My boys like to use a sharpie to color the heads to match the hubcap color. I would not want to mess up the work of a young boy to determine if it was nickel plated or not. Trying to determine just by looking at the visible shaft would also be very difficult since they are usually covered with glue.

[Stan Pope]

The color test may not always be valid. My boys like to use a sharpie to color the heads to match the hubcap color.

Okay, but make sure that your local rules permit the original surface of the nail head to be obscured.

[psycaz]

On that note, My son almost had his car dq'd last year due to polishing the head of the nail while doing the portion the wheel rode on.

They suspected him of chroming the nail itself. We were able to finally convince them that it was just polish.

After that, we started keeping the polish and a fresh nail with us to be able to prove that it was just polish.

Do whatever you can to leave the head of the nail untouched.

We are rethinking the idea of scoring the heads to help with alignment, just to be safe.

[Stan Pope]

We are rethinking the idea of scoring the heads to help with alignment, just to be safe.

"Scoring the heads" refers to placing a radial mark on or in the nail head to show nail orientation.

It is purely a local thing, but consider from the inspector's point of view: Polishing and/or coloring obscures the entire outer surface of the nail head. "Scoring" and/or underside tapering leave a large percentage of the original nail head surface visible and unchanged.

If you score the axle head with a scribe, you affect a very small area. If you score with the corner of a file. the area is larger, but still a small percentage.

[chesspupil]

I would suggest direct comparison with an unmounted polished axle.

Still, the polish used could be blamed...


As for boys coloring axles, I would think the rules not covering an issue implies they ALLOW and issue...

As for inspection holes, why would it be illegal to grind the points down in the front axles just to move a tiny bit of metal back to the rear... a half length axle should still be plenty long enough to serve its purpose and you move 1 more gram higher.

[CanyonLakeDerby]

I am going to try stamping the ends of the axles in the kits. Sounds a bit tedious, but I think it can be done. I was going to use 4 different 1 letter stamps (P346) so each car would have one of each...which stands for Pack 346.

I'm also going to try and stamp the wheels or perhaps "brand" the wheels ...which ever way works without altering the wheel for performance.

[psycaz]

How do you stamp an axle?

Would the stamp leave an impregnated mark into the axle head?

If so, how do you do that without affecting current shape and quality of the axle, also how do you get to them since the boxes are sealed?


If it is just an ink type stamp, what happens if a scout gets a little wild with the polish and removes it?

Same issues with doing wheels? How would you impregnate a stamp without hurting the wheel?

You are going to get some grumbling that someone is cherry picking wheels since they get to open every box.

You also make it difficult for someone to rectify a mistake. Say they ruin an axle or wheel, you make it hard for them to just get and use another.

They have to go through the issue of contacting someone to request a replacement, time permitting.

Same thing if someone wants to get a matched set of wheels by buying extras.

At some point, it need to be, let's just hope they are honest.

[CanyonLakeDerby]

How do you stamp an axle?

Would the stamp leave an impregnated mark into the axle head?

If so, how do you do that without affecting current shape and quality of the axle, also how do you get to them since the boxes are sealed?


If it is just an ink type stamp, what happens if a scout gets a little wild with the polish and removes it?

Same issues with doing wheels? How would you impregnate a stamp without hurting the wheel?

You are going to get some grumbling that someone is cherry picking wheels since they get to open every box.

You also make it difficult for someone to rectify a mistake. Say they ruin an axle or wheel, you make it hard for them to just get and use another.

They have to go through the issue of contacting someone to request a replacement, time permitting.

Same thing if someone wants to get a matched set of wheels by buying extras.

At some point, it need to be, let's just hope they are honest.

Stamping the head of axle should not be difficult, I have already done a couple tests with a punch. I used the Pro Axle Press to hold the axle.

The wheel is more of a challenge, as you said, in trying not to alter the wheel. I was thinking more of a branding or ink stamp on the inside of the wheel - I have to try a few different ways. Using matched wheels means people are buying parts ($7.95) to make their car faster....not everyone knows about this and many don't want to spend extra money just to be competitive. I think the majority of parents don't like it when people start doing this.

We are going to also stamp the block (in several locations on the bottom so that we don't limit design - one stamp has to be left in tact).

If someone needs a new axle, wheel, or block they just request what ever they need from their den leader. They get a calendar of events with lots of time to get things done - they have plenty of time and opportunity to get their cars done in advance as we hold workshops. Our biggest den (13 tigers) all had their cars done 1 month in advance - with the exception of final weigh in.

Our rules say they must use what is provided in the kit that is provided to them. It is a pretty big loop hole to say that they must use what is provided in the kit, as all the aftermarket prepped stuff uses official BSA parts that technically are provided in the kit....just not the kit given to them. I will be adding additional rules about how they go about getting replacement parts should they damage them or perhaps a wheel (say from infamous mold 12) is not usable or is in bad shape.

It is always difficult to impose these kind of rules and there will always be grumbling. It is a learning curve. If we get the rules out well in advance and make them clear, the grumbling has been minimal.

We also have an unlimited class that has pretty good attendance, so people can pull out all the speed tricks they want - they just have to use BSA parts...doesn't matter where they get them. That seemed to help.

You bring up some great points that we have been pondering. We want to make the playing field as level as possible and also keep the honest people honest. We don't want to be over controlling zealots. It is a learning curve...that is for sure!

[psycaz]

You can also get a matched set by buying extra sets of wheels and axles from the scout stores. They sell them in boxes of 5wheels and 5 or 6 axles I believe.