
We started by baking the blocks for 4hrs at 250deg. Weighed before and after, this dropped about 5% of the original weight, which surprised me a bit.
The pack rules allowed canted axles, so we drilled the rears with a purchased jig @-3deg and bent the DFW positive and adjusted for 3"@4ft.
RF is DFW and LF is raised about 3/16". We used dremel to slot RF axle for adjustments and then used loctite to secure once we were happy.
Cars are built with 5.25" WB and COG is about 1.25" forward of rear axle. I know this isn't terribly aggressive, but I worried about track quality as it was an old aluminum over wood framed track that had a reputation (per the scout leader) of cars jumping lanes, though none did this time.
Weight is 11/32" tool steel rod inserted into cars about 1/4 in front of rear axle, with the addition of a chamber in front of that which allows for minor adjustment with splitshot fishing weights or BBs. Cars weighed right around 4.97oz at race time.
We deburred and polished axles to 2000grit and then used the buffer and compound from my polishing kit for the finishing touch. We spent hours getting all eight of them to spin 20-25secs on PinewoodPro graphite. (I didn't read about Lemon Pledge until after)

Here is one of the 2 identical cars we built - (hope this link works)
We just took 1st and 2nd in the pack with ease. Next closest car was the scout leader's son's car which our slowest beat by at least 3-4 car lengths every time. Both boys now go to Districts, but the rules are requiring that we make a couple of modifications to their cars and here is where we need your help.

I asked my boys if they wanted to build new, but they really want to race their current "lucky" cars.

So, here is the issue -
New rules state:
-No canted/tilted axles
-3 wheels on track, 4 must exist on car
-Wheels must run flat on tread but "slight adjustments to axles allowed to make car run as needed"
-Wheels can only be "cleaned up" but not turned down or have tread sanded.
-Polishing axles is allowed
So now we have ordered new axles and wheels from Revell and are awaiting their arrival.
I will need to drill new axle holes in front of the existing rear since the holes are -3deg. I will use the jig and go forward about 1/8" to stay as far back as I can and still out of the weights (but man am I getting close here).
I will need to replace the DFW axle as it is bent and slotted, but with slight adjustments allowed per the rules, it sounds like I may be able to still rail ride? Thoughts on this?
Any advice you experts can give to make the rears track out to the heads but still ride flat on their treads??
Thank you!!!
