Has anyone heard of this lube?

[*5 J's*]

ya i think you have a bad bottle or something.

I have had level 1, level 1.5 and level 2 and also level 2.5 ( level 2.5 I have not tried yet)

I would contact the seller, I think something is wrong with yours. mine dried every time.

Mine is 2.5. I have two bottles from two different shipments (the first arrived "leaking" and 2/3 of the product had leaked out - vendor promptly shipped a new bottle - kudo's here). Both bottles, to me, leave a wet surface. I don't know, maybe it's just me. If I spill oil on a counter and wipe it up with a towel - it is still shiny and wet to me, unless I spray it with a detergent to remove the oil. Maybe a bad analogy, but it's all I can come up with right now.

[sporty]

ah k, ya I have not used the 2.5, so you may be right.

my days of testing are done, so im not sure i will ever get to it, if i do it will be next year.

but I have sold my timer and soon my track and many other goods I have sold.

So I do lack the equipement now also.

[FatSebastian]

I did get it faster than graphite. [...] We can run dry lubes. But not oil. So since its dry, It would be allowed. It goes on clear and just follow the instructions.

Based on information shared, Coach's Secret Lube has no advantage over oil, but appears to be invisible, potentially faster, and longer-lasting than graphite. Great! However...

I wonder if there are intangible drawbacks that could outweigh the mild performance benefits. In racing environments where liquids are disallowed (and especially in environments where inspectors are accustomed to seeing dirty, graphite-stained sidewalls), does the use of an "oil-like" (invisible, faster, and longer-lasting) dried lube cast suspicions on its user? It goes on wet, so one might not convince an inspector that it is a dry lube by showing him the bottle! (And for some units, it may be open to interpretation whether "dried liquid" should be classified as a dry lubricant or a liquid lubricant.)

Now not listed or mentioned was another step that I tried in going faster with it. [...] Ya im gonna hold on to that added process for a few weeks.

Okay, it's been a few weeks. Are you ready to let go of "that added process?"

[whodathunkit]

Now not listed or mentioned was another step that I tried in going faster with it. [...] Ya im gonna hold on to that added process for a few weeks.

Okay, it's been a few weeks. Are you ready to let go of "that added process?"[/quote]

I have not got around to trying this Secret lube.. from coach's
But had a friend send some to try.

Sporty, did you use a very sharp needle to poke the 3 holes
where the car body and wheel hub touches
Hope you did not poke more then 3 when useing the ceramic based paint
And did you use Tom's Tooth paste with the wheel prep?
I haven't seen these questions asked about this lube
and what is the how to manual.

Hope i diden't let the cat out of the bag on the added process.

[sporty]

Yikes, totally forgot about this post.

No i did not drill wholes in the wood. There were things I just did not do per the instructions.


Can't recall everything.

However,

I just used my bore prep process on the wheel bore and super polished the axles, with what I have mentioned before on here, on what I do.

I also polished the lip on the outside of the wheel. I talked about this in some more recent posts, which by now would have been months ago.


You might recall, I took a q-tip , several of them and made small squares of the micro mesh and glued them on the q-tips, noting to keep each grit seperate. and layign my drill press on its side to do the lip on the wheels. and being able to see what I was doing.


I used the coach lube, as it said, though.


apply on the lip, apply on the axle, carefull, a little goes along way. and into the wheel bore, and on the edge of the rail rider wheel.

I let it dry, then put them together, added another drop into the axle / wheel bore area and did this on all wheel. a light spin every 30 seconds and also kept the weight of the car off the wheels, during this process.

I did the light spin 3 to 6 times, I forget the exact number. i was playing around with a few cars with this and tinkering also with amounts to apply.

I was doing stuff, then testing and running it after 4 hours.

it's best to apply and do this 4 to 8 hours or a day before the race.
it does have a bit of a curing time.


Now Im not sure I still got my note book with all the stuff and info with mods and times.

But I was playing around with makign it faster with doing wax on the wheel bore or axle. I forget which one, both did not work and one way did. I was thinking it was the wheel bore and not the axle.

I played around with oil and different combos and applications with the coaches stuff also. I do not recall any break thru's with coaches stuff and oil mix and matches, ect.


It goes on wet and if you wait a day, it stays dry, unless you did not shake it well enough or something. It was dry on race day and held for 3 months in a box for the council race.

And we won council with it ! It was faster than my graphite cars. So took the risk of it being in a box for 3 months.

it passed inspection at both pack and council and i can assure you, they look over our cars very well ! when ya win council like 4/5 years in a row. they inspect you very well !.

it was dry ! and the testing prior to the gamble, showed no slow down after allot of runs. So I took the gamble it would still be good in 3 months in a sealed box, held by the pack.

it did and no slow down, the finals with all the runs earlier in the day, the car did not slow down and I felt we won by some of are biggest margins in the finals, compared to the previous year.

Sporty

[whodathunkit]

Sporty, Thank you!

Sorry so many questions.
Just trying to ask you the questions that some may not ask about this lube.

You said you kept the weight off the wheels and you broke them in slow.

Did you spin them by hand.. Or did you use an air compresser / canned air.
Holding the car upside down spining the wheels in the same direction as
when the car rolls down the track.
And as the wheels were spining did you turn and tilt the car in all
directions. spinning the wheels for no longer then 4 seconds
& allow the wheels to spin freely untell thay stoped.
And when you were done with that procedure..
did you pull the wheels and axels and wipe clean the axles and the inside
of the hubs.

I guess the reason i'm asking.
This would help with the drying time for this lube.

[sporty]

I just had the car up off the ground, meanign the wheels not touching, i used a full size peice of pwd woof block. i just finger spun them lightly, naturally in the forward motion, that they would spin, when moving forward down the track. Yes I just let them stop spinning on there own.

They do not spin super fast when wet. The whole reason I did it, was I first did not spin them and let it dry, well naturally the lube due to gravity, would end up not even and thicker on the botton of the wheel bore and axle.

So my whole reason for the light spins, was to prevent this and and ensure even coating while it dries, while light spinning.

Uh air blowing and ect,, fast spins, would likely wreck the whole process. were not talking 10,000 rpm here.

[sporty]

And when you were done with that procedure..
did you pull the wheels and axels and wipe clean the axles and the inside
of the hubs.

I guess the reason i'm asking.
This would help with the drying time for this lube.

No, if you did that, you would remove the coating.

[whodathunkit]

Thanks Sporty!

[Teeeman]

Was there ever a concensus as to whether this lube actually completely dries?

(thanks!)

-T

[whodathunkit]

Was there ever a concensus as to whether this lube actually completely dries?

(thanks!)

-T

IMPORTANT
Do not use too much lube. he states:
his lube is most effective when a very thin dry coat exist between
the treated sufaces.
For best performance, he says to wipe off excess lube.

Never used this stuff.. just reading it from his manual.

[Teeeman]

I would not hazard a position regarding "liquid: yes or no" with this material without some first hand experience with it.

I may offer the following thoughts:

Here's a decent definition of a liquid-> "The state of matter in which a substance exhibits a characteristic readiness to flow, little or no tendency to disperse, and relatively high incompressibility"

And for our discussion, these characteristics would be at ambient, room or close to, temperatures (just say standard conditions for sake of discussion, here's the one I was taught in school... NIST... a temperature of 20 °C (293.15 K, 68 °F) and an absolute pressure of 101.325 kPa (14.696 psi, 1 atm)).

whoda seems to observe a puddle of this substance doesn't "dry"

sporty said "dries in seconds"

There was also some concern about different formulations possibly being why 2 folks had different observations.

My goal would be to distinguish if the substance truly dries, or partially dries or actually remains a liquid.

Truly dries: -> leaves nothing behind that flows at standard conditions, has surface tension or a high resistance to compressibility (i.e. powdered graphite will compress as you displace air between the pieces, liquids won't do that hardly at all), in this case the carrier fully evaporated and left only solid phase matter behind

Partially dries: -> the carrier evaporates but leaves behind some other liquid (the descriptions of shake well, blobs visible in the carrier, etc. lead me to believe the original substance form is that of 2 immiscible (non-mixing) liquids)

Remains a liquid: -> probably easiest to discern, especially if a blob remains a blob for days and will still flow if acted on by sufficient forces (wind, gravity, mechanical displacement)



Everything I've read has me leaning towards partially dries at this point.

I was a trombone player in high school and in college.

The trombone uses a slide instead of valves as most of you probably know.

There were pretty much 2 options to lubricate the metal/metal of the slide: oil, or cold cream + water

(cold cream + water was highly preferred, it worked better, didn't stink, and allowed us kids to have an excuse to have a spray bottle of water with you at all times

Both oil and the cold cream + water had similar "life". Cold cream actually lasted longer, but required frequent reapplication of water due to evaporation and displacement to the spit valve via gravity and mechanical motion.

I am thinking this mystery lube may be an analogy of the cold cream + water... the carrier may be offering a coating of something analogous to the cold cream (a wax?)... and the remaining material is likely an oil of some form (or glycol or silicone... think they are compatible with styrene... or something that doesn't evaporate and doesn't eat styrene plastic chemically).

It is possible a well distributed, very thin layer may exhibit properties similar enough to a "solid" that it could appear dry.

I think as mentioned prior wicking would be a good test... it might literally require a microscope to see from a very-thin film application.

For that matter, if the surface adhesion forces were sufficiently strong, for a very thin layer wicking might not occur? (adhesion stronger than wicking forces)

May I suggest a test?


Place a large amount over a very large surface such as clean glass, in as clean but open an environment as possible.

Let it sit at least 24 hours... maybe longer?

Then, use a razor blade.... scoop up whatever is left on the surface... into as concentrated a "pile" as possible.

Then reassess for flow and wicking and compressibilty.

Thoughts?


-T

[sporty]

I did hundreds of runs of this stuff.

I never seen it look wet ! except for when I put it on and let it dry. It does seem if you do not let it sit for 8 hours, then it does not give you good run times. But I have seen good times after 2 hours. But not always.

Like I said, I did allot of testing and tinkering and a ton of runs down the track. I went thru 3 bottles in a week, just testing.

I had 3 test cars and mand I lost the nice polish job on the wheels surface several times. each car had over 500 runs easily on them

each car was ran 80 times, keeping the times for those 80 runs, thats when I would re-apply and run again and again.

I ran this stuff thru the ringer. and except for the cost. It does work and it was faster than graphite for me and lasted way longer.

if you cant get your car using this to run equal or faster times and last way longer than graphite. then either ya got a bad one, did something wrong.

Or you are one the of the super elite adult racers in the world. <<< PPPSSSTTT. Last year was one of those years where I did pretty good against the best of the best.


I have always disliked playing with graphite. a mess and stains all over the place. mess on the track, ect, ect.

I think oil is the way to go, but if you cant run oil, but can run dry, and fits within your rules. i think its certainly worth using or trying it out.

I just think the price is way to high.

[whodathunkit]

Guys, lets not get in to a fight here!

Sporty, I've never used this stuff.. you have.
I'm just reading how he states to apply it from his manual.

And yes Sporty, like you I think the price is to much to pay!

Not knowing what this stuff is or what 5 materials are used in this lube.
Some have asked if it comes with an MSDS sheet.
We all know that graphite is not healthy.
So think about this do you what kids to use this not knowing what
this lube is..

[murphken]

The product leverages "thin film" ideology. It is essentially a wet lube applied really thin. I have some of the product. We have not used it in Cub Scouts or in Pro Racing. I just tried it out for performance.

There are two distinct parts of the medium. One part that is on bottom, is the lubricant. The major part which is less dense (stays on top), is your medium that "flashes-off" after application into the bore/axle interface.

If your Pack/District/Council Rules say "graphite only" or "no oils or wet lubes", you should not be using this stuff or you could be in violation of the rules. Thats my take.

Still, kickin' a little wood on the fire Sporty. Miss ya bud! I was thinking of you last weekend at the races. You had an influence in what happened.
Murph
Shining Light Tribology